Formulation Advice for Your Serum Formula

Here is some advice regarding your serum formula containing Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Alpha Arbutin, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Ectoin, Glabridin, Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer, and Hyaluronic Acid.

Ingredient Solubility

• Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine: Based on the product information, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine (MSH White™) is soluble in oil or alcohol at a minimum temperature of 60°C. It is not soluble in Butylene Glycol alone.
• Glabridin: Pure-Glabridin™ (Glabridin 90%) is soluble in Butylene Glycol or Ethanol. You need to use Butylene Glycol or Ethanol at a minimum ratio of 10 times the amount of Glabridin used in the formula. For example, if you use 0.1% Glabridin, you need at least 1% Butylene Glycol or Ethanol to dissolve it. Heating to 50-60°C can help with dissolution.

Formulation Adjustments

Since Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is not soluble in Butylene Glycol, you would need to adjust your formula to include an oil or alcohol phase where it can be dissolved with heat before incorporating it into the water phase. The Glabridin should also be dissolved in the Butylene Glycol (at the required ratio) before adding it to the main formula.

Preservative

Yes, it is necessary to add a preservative to this formula. Since the formula is water-based and contains several ingredients that can support microbial growth, a preservative is essential to prevent bacterial contamination and maintain product stability and safety. Ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid also require a preservative to prevent degradation.

Anti-Irritant

Alpha Arbutin is generally considered safe, but some individuals may experience irritation. Your formula already includes Niacinamide (Safe-B3™), which is known to help strengthen the skin barrier and fight irritations. This may help mitigate potential irritation from Alpha Arbutin. However, if you anticipate the product being used by individuals with very sensitive skin or if you are using a high concentration of Alpha Arbutin, you could consider adding an additional anti-irritant ingredient to enhance the formula's gentleness.

By carefully adjusting the mixing method for Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine and Glabridin, adding a suitable preservative, and considering an anti-irritant, you can create a stable and effective serum.