Formulation Review: Acne-Reducing Facial Wash Gel for Combination Skin

Asked by: kobmrang On: April 09, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please review this acne-reducing facial wash gel formula for combination skin.

Ingredients:

  1. Cocamidopropyl Betaine 15%
  2. N-Acetyl Cysteine (Glutathione synthesis) 5%
  3. Allantoin 0.3%
  4. Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  5. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
  6. Glycerin (USP/Food Grade) 5%
  7. Xanthan Gum 0.5%
  8. Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free): 2%
  9. Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural): 3%
  10. WaterSil™ 8/12 (Water Gel Detackifier): 2%
  11. Centella Asiatica Extract 2%
  12. Tomato Extract 2%
  13. Fragrance 0.5%
  14. Di-Water: to 100%

Can this formula be mixed? Are there any ingredients that should not be used? I am looking for a formula that is easy to rinse and not slippery, but doesn't leave the skin feeling dry or tight. Does this formula meet those requirements? Do I need to increase or decrease any ingredients? What should the final pH be? Also, please provide mixing instructions. Thank you.

Answer

The facial cleanser formula you provided is generally compatible and can be mixed. However, to meet your specific requirements for a "non-slippery, easy-to-rinse" feel while maintaining moisture for combination/acne-prone skin, I have the following recommendations:

1. Formula Analysis & Adjustments

  • Surfactant System: Using Cocamidopropyl Betaine as the sole surfactant often results in a "slippery" feel that is hard to rinse off. To achieve a cleaner rinse and better cleansing power for combination skin, I recommend adding a non-ionic surfactant like Coco Glucoside.
    • Suggestion: Use Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10% + Coco Glucoside 10-15%.
  • N-Acetyl Cysteine (NAC): 5% is a high concentration for a wash-off product. Since it stays on the skin briefly, 1-2% is usually sufficient and more cost-effective.
  • Texture & Rinse-off: Xanthan Gum at 0.5% provides a gel texture but can contribute to a "slimy" feel. If you find it too slippery, you might consider Flora-Gum™, which provides a more "premium" and cleaner skin feel.
  • Moisture Balance: Sodium Lactate and Glycerin are excellent for ensuring the skin doesn't feel tight after washing. WaterSil™ 8/12 is a great choice here as it helps reduce the tackiness of the humectants.

2. Recommended Final pH

For a facial cleanser, the ideal pH is 5.0 - 5.5. This range is close to the skin's natural acidity, helping to maintain the skin barrier and inhibit acne-causing bacteria. You can use Citric Acid (dissolved in water) to lower the pH if it is too high.

3. Mixing Instructions

  1. Water Phase: Dissolve Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Safe-B3™, N-Acetyl Cysteine, and Sodium Lactate in Di-Water. Stir until completely clear.
  2. Thickening: Mix Xanthan Gum with Glycerin in a separate small container (this prevents clumping). Then, pour this mixture into the Water Phase and stir until a smooth gel forms.
  3. Surfactants: Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and Coco Glucoside if added) to the gel. Stir gently to avoid creating excessive foam.
  4. Active Ingredients: Add Centella Asiatica Extract, Tomato Extract, and WaterSil™ 8/12. Stir to combine.
  5. Preservation & Fragrance: Add Mild Preserved Eco™ and Fragrance.
  6. pH Adjustment: Measure the pH. If it's above 5.5, slowly add a 10% Citric Acid solution until the desired pH is reached.

Summary of Ingredients

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Surfactant)
  • Coco Glucoside (Recommended additional surfactant for better rinse-off)
  • N-Acetyl Cysteine (Antioxidant)
  • Allantoin (Soothing)
  • Disodium EDTA (Chelating agent)
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3)
  • Glycerin (Humectant)
  • Xanthan Gum (Thickener)
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative)
  • Sodium Lactate (Humectant/Buffer)
  • WaterSil™ 8/12 (Detackifier)
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Soothing)
  • Tomato Extract (Antioxidant)