Formula Review and Mixing Order

Let's review your formulas and discuss the mixing process.

Formula 1 (Copper Peptide Serum)

You asked about adding 2.5% Reservoir-Tech to this formula. Reservoir-Tech is designed to enhance penetration, but it does not dissolve in water. It needs to be dispersed in a thickened formula to prevent separation. Since your Formula 1 is a liquid, adding Reservoir-Tech at this concentration without a thickener like AnyGel™ (which is already in your formula, but perhaps not at a high enough concentration for dispersion) would likely cause it to separate. To effectively use Reservoir-Tech, you would need to increase the concentration of your thickener or use a different type of base that can properly suspend it.

Formula 2 (Mandelic Serum)

Your revised Formula 2 includes 10% Mandelic Acid and 1% Salicylic Acid EZ™, with 10% Butylene Glycol. Adding Butylene Glycol is a good step, as it helps dissolve Mandelic Acid, which is not highly soluble in water alone, especially at 10%. However, combining 10% Mandelic Acid with 1% Salicylic Acid EZ™ might still be irritating for some skin types. The staff previously advised reducing AHA (like Mandelic Acid) to no more than 3% when used with BHA to minimize irritation. While 1% Salicylic Acid EZ™ is a low concentration, the high percentage of Mandelic Acid could still cause sensitivity. It is crucial to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying this formula to your face.

Regarding the inclusion of Salicylic Acid EZ™ for occasional clogged pores: Salicylic Acid EZ™ is effective at dissolving existing clogs, while Mandelic Acid's exfoliation helps prevent new ones. Including 1% Salicylic Acid EZ™ can help address occasional breakouts, but Mandelic Acid alone also contributes to preventing them. You can decide whether to keep the Salicylic Acid EZ™ based on your skin's needs and tolerance, keeping in mind the potential for increased irritation when combined with high-concentration Mandelic Acid.

Important Note on pH: As the staff mentioned, ingredients like Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) can degrade at very low pH levels (below 3). Since your formula contains Mandelic Acid and Salicylic Acid EZ™, the pH will be acidic. It is essential to measure the pH of your finished serum using a pH meter and adjust it to above 3 using a mild base like Triethanolamine if necessary to maintain the stability and effectiveness of these ingredients.

General Mixing Order for Water-Based Serums

Here is a general mixing order for water-based serums like yours:

1. Water Phase: Combine Purified Water and water-soluble ingredients. For Formula 2, you may need to gently heat the water phase (50-60°C) to help dissolve Mandelic Acid and Butylene Glycol, as suggested by the staff. Ensure everything is fully dissolved.
2. Add Thickeners: Add AnyGel™ to the water phase and mix until the desired gel consistency is achieved. Ensure it is fully hydrated and dispersed.
3. Add Other Actives/Ingredients: Add other water-soluble or dispersible ingredients such as Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, Panthenol, Allantoin, Double Hyaluron Liquid, etc. Mix well after each addition.
4. Add Preservative: Add Mild Preserved Eco™ and mix thoroughly.
5. Adjust pH (Crucial for Formula 2): Measure the pH of the final mixture. If it is below 3 (especially for Formula 2), add a small amount of Triethanolamine drop by drop, mixing well and re-measuring the pH until it is above 3. Be careful not to add too much, as a high pH can also be irritating or affect ingredient stability.
6. Final Mixing: Mix gently to ensure homogeneity without incorporating too much air.

Always ensure each ingredient is fully dissolved or dispersed before adding the next, and mix thoroughly between additions.