Formulation Review

Upon reviewing your formulation, it is a complex formula with a variety of active ingredients and different solubility requirements. Here are some points to consider regarding potential mixing issues and stability:

• Emulsion Stability: The total oil phase content appears to be around 22.75%, while PhosphoMax™ is listed as an emulsifier capable of emulsifying up to 20% oil when used alone, recommending co-use with Xanthan Gum for stability. While you are using Xanthan Gum (0.5%), the total oil load is slightly above the typical capacity mentioned for PhosphoMax™ as a primary emulsifier. The combination with Ezerwax™ and Oleic Acid might help, but emulsion stability, especially over time and under temperature variations, should be carefully tested (e.g., heat/cold cycles, centrifugation).

• Ingredient Solubility and Dispersion:

  • WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) is a powder that dissolves in glycol or oil. It should be pre-dissolved in Butylene Glycol or Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) before adding to the main formula.
  • Troxerutin is water-soluble and should be dissolved in the water phase. It is sensitive to heat, so it's best to add it during the cooling phase.
  • MatteSilica 5™ and White Glitter Mica are powders that need to be well-dispersed, likely in the oil phase, to avoid sedimentation and ensure a smooth texture. High shear mixing may be necessary.
  • The solubility of Pure-Baicalin™ and Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract should be confirmed to determine the appropriate phase for mixing.

• Mixing Procedure and Temperature Sensitivity:

  • Ingredients like Troxerutin and Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) are sensitive to high temperatures and should be added during the cooling phase (below 40-50°C) after the emulsion has formed.
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ should be added in the final step during cooling, as recommended.
  • The oil phase containing Ezerwax™, Protec™ OX, Protec™ UV, Protec™ SQ, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Oleic Acid, and Olive CLEAR will need to be heated (around 70-80°C) to melt the waxes and dissolve solid components before combining with the water phase.
  • Ensure the water phase is heated to a similar temperature before combining for emulsification, but be mindful of heat-sensitive components if adding them early.

• Color and Odor: Protec™ SQ is a yellow oil and may impart a yellow color to the final product, especially at 3%. Rosemary Oleoresin Extract can also contribute color and odor.

• pH: The final pH of the formula should be checked. Mild Preserved Eco™ is effective in the pH range of 4-9. Copper Peptide is generally stable between pH 5-7. Ensuring the final pH is within a suitable range for all ingredients and skin compatibility is important.

Recommendation:

Proceed with careful mixing, paying close attention to the solubility and temperature requirements of each ingredient. It is highly recommended to perform comprehensive stability testing (including heat/cold cycles and centrifugation) on the final product to ensure the emulsion remains stable and the active ingredients maintain their integrity over time.