Formulation Review: Makeup Remover Foam

Thank you for sharing your formulation for a makeup remover foam. Here is a review with some points to consider:

Ingredients and Concentrations:

• Sulfate Free Foaming Base (20%): This is a suitable base for creating foam and cleansing.
• Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (5%): Acts as a solubilizer and co-cleanser, helping to incorporate ingredients and aid in cleansing.
• Hydroxyacetophenone (0.1%) & Mild Preserved Eco (1%): This combination provides effective preservation for the product.
• Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane (linked ingredient, 4%): This concentration is significantly higher than typical usage rates (usually 0.1-1%). At 4%, you might encounter solubility issues, the product color could be affected, and it may not offer additional benefits compared to lower concentrations. It's recommended to check its solubility in your specific formula and consider reducing the percentage if needed.
• Water: The base solvent.
• Lactic Acid (adjust pH 4-5): Adjusting the pH to 4-5 is appropriate for Lactic Acid's exfoliating properties. However, the exact amount needed will depend on the buffering capacity of the other ingredients. Be aware that a low pH can potentially cause skin irritation, especially for sensitive skin, even in a wash-off product.
• EDTA (0.2%): A chelating agent that helps improve stability and boosts preservative efficacy.
• Allantoin (0.1%): A good addition for its soothing and skin-conditioning properties.

Suitability as a Makeup Remover:

This formulation is primarily a foaming cleanser. While Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate helps, it might not be strong enough to effectively remove heavy or waterproof makeup compared to dedicated makeup removers like cleansing oils or balms. It is likely more suitable for removing light makeup or as a second step in a double cleansing routine.

Recommendations:

1. Check Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane Solubility: Verify if 4% of Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane fully dissolves and remains stable in your formulation without affecting clarity or color over time. Consider reducing the concentration if solubility is an issue or if you find lower percentages are sufficient.
2. pH Adjustment and Irritation: Carefully adjust the pH with Lactic Acid. After formulating, test the product on a small area of skin to assess potential irritation, especially if targeting a low pH of 4.
3. Testing: Conduct stability testing (e.g., appearance, pH, viscosity changes over time and temperature) and test the actual makeup removal efficacy with the types of makeup you intend the product to remove.

Overall, this is a solid base for a foaming cleanser. The main points to scrutinize are the high level of Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane and the potential for irritation from the low pH adjusted by Lactic Acid.