Foundation Formulation Framework

This framework assumes a water-in-silicone/oil emulsion.

Please note that developing a stable and effective foundation requires careful balancing of ingredients and rigorous testing. The exact percentages for each ingredient will need to be adjusted based on desired coverage, feel, and stability.

Phase A (Silicone/Oil Phase)

• Isododecane
• Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
• Silicone 5225C (PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone) OR Mirasil Balance (Water-in-Oil Balance™) OR PEG-10 Dimethicone (SiliSolve™) (Choose one or a combination of emulsifiers)
• Silicone Gel 5045 (e.q. BSG-5045, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) OR Silicone Gel 5041 (e.q. BSG-5041, Dimethicone Base)
• Hectorite Gel™ (Dicaprylyl Carbonate Base)
• Silicone Film (Isododecane Base is preferred if avoiding D5)
• Polyhydroxystearic acid

Phase B (Pigment Dispersion)

• Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™
• Yellow Iron Oxides EasyMix™
• Black Iron Oxides EasyMix™
• Titanium Dioxide 250nm Pigment (Non-Treated)
• A portion of Phase A ingredients (e.g., Isododecane, Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic acid) to disperse the pigments.

Phase C (Water Phase)

• Water (Purified Water)
• Glycerine
• UltraMild Aquaporin™ (Glyceryl Glucoside, Low-Sticky)
• Caprylyl Glycol
• (Optional) Electrolytes like Magnesium Sulfate can help stabilize water-in-oil/silicone emulsions, especially with certain emulsifiers like PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone or Water-in-Oil Balance™.

Phase D (Final Additions)

• MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron)

Mixing Steps

1. Prepare Phase B (Pigment Dispersion): Combine the pigments (Beige, Yellow, Black Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide) with a suitable amount of the oil/silicone phase ingredients (from Phase A) and Polyhydroxystearic acid. Mill or grind this mixture thoroughly until the pigments are fully dispersed and no streaks are visible. This is a critical step for color development and stability.
2. Prepare Phase A (Silicone/Oil Phase): Combine the remaining ingredients from Phase A, including the chosen emulsifier(s), silicone oils, silicone gels, Hectorite Gel, and Silicone Film. Mix until homogeneous. Add the prepared Pigment Dispersion (Phase B) to Phase A and mix until uniform.
3. Prepare Phase C (Water Phase): In a separate container, combine Water, Glycerine, UltraMild Aquaporin™, and Caprylyl Glycol. Mix until all ingredients are dissolved.
4. Emulsification: Slowly add Phase C (Water Phase) dropwise or in a thin stream to Phase A (Silicone/Oil Phase) while mixing with high shear (e.g., using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer). Continue mixing until the emulsion is formed and homogeneous.
5. Add Phase D: Add MatteSilica 5™ to the emulsion and mix until evenly dispersed.
6. Final Adjustments: Check the viscosity, color, and feel. Make minor adjustments if necessary and mix again.

Alternatives for D4 and D5 Silicones

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a volatile silicone commonly used in cosmetics for its light feel and ability to carry other ingredients. D4 (Cyclotetrasiloxane) is less common now due to regulatory restrictions. Some of the ingredients you listed, like Silicone Gel 5045 and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, are based in Cyclopentasiloxane (D5).

If you wish to avoid D5, here are some alternatives based on the search results:

• For Volatile Silicone (like D5):
  • Dodecane (Natural Cyclopentasiloxane Replacement): A natural-derived alternative with a very light feel and similar evaporation rate to Cyclopentasiloxane.
  • C9-12 Alkane (Natural Silicone Replacer): Another natural-derived oil that is lightweight, provides a silicone-like feel, and is volatile.
• For Silicone Gels (like Silicone Gel 5045 which is D5-based):
  • Silicone Gel 5041 (e.q. BSG-5041, Dimethicone Base): This silicone gel is based in Dimethicone (a linear silicone) instead of Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), offering a similar texture modification benefit without D5.
• For Film Formers (like Silicone Film in D5):
  • Use Silicone Film (Isododecane Base) instead of the Cyclopentasiloxane-based versions. Isododecane is a volatile hydrocarbon that can provide similar quick-drying and film-forming properties.
• For Emulsifiers (like PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone in D5):
  • Water-in-Oil Balance™ (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) and PEG-10 Dimethicone (SiliSolve™) do not list D5 in their INCI names, although their compatibility with silicones like Cyclomethicone is mentioned. You would need to test their performance with D5-free emollients like Dodecane or C9-12 Alkane. Finding a direct drop-in D5-free emulsifier with the exact same performance might require exploring other emulsifier options not present in your initial list or the search results.

Ingredients not found:

• Wynca® XHG-025
• SUNCAT MTA

These ingredients were not found in the database, so I cannot provide specific information or alternatives for them.

Remember to perform stability testing on your final formulation to ensure it remains consistent over time and under different conditions.