Functions of Cosmetic Ingredients in a Formulation

Asked by: ann.thnchnk On: September 20, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

Could you please explain the function of each ingredient in the following list when used in a cosmetic formulation?

  • Water
  • Butylene Glycol
  • PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
  • Dimethicone
  • Niacinamide
  • Dipropylene glycol
  • Hydroxyacetophenone
  • Bisabolol
  • Trehalose
  • Caprylyl Glycol
  • Carbomer
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Disodium EDTA
  • Potassium Hydroxide
  • Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Fragrance
  • aloe barbadensis leaf juice
  • Maltodextrin
  • Bifida Ferment Lysate
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • sodium benzoate
  • PEG-90M
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
  • Polysorbate 20
  • Retinol
  • Polysiphonia Elongata Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Collagen
  • Potassium Sorbate
  • Tetrapeptide-26
  • Citric Acid

Answer

Cosmetic Ingredients and Their Functions

Based on the ingredients provided and available information, here are the roles these components typically play in cosmetic formulations:

Solvents and Humectants

  • Water: The primary solvent, forming the base of many formulations.
  • Butylene Glycol (Product ID: 320): Used as a solvent and humectant, helping to draw moisture into the skin. It is considered gentler than Propylene Glycol.
  • Dipropylene Glycol (Product ID: 488): Primarily used as a solvent, especially effective for dissolving fragrances and acting as a fixative to help scents last longer.
  • Trehalose (Product ID: 197): A natural disaccharide that functions as a humectant, enhancing skin hydration and improving barrier function. It also offers protective effects against desiccation and oxidative stress.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate / Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (Product IDs: 105, 404): Different molecular sizes of Hyaluronic Acid. They are powerful humectants that hydrate the skin, with smaller molecules potentially penetrating deeper. Double Hyaluron Liquid (ID 404) is a liquid blend of nano and standard sizes for ease of use.
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Product ID: 76): Aloe Vera Extract, known for its soothing, anti-irritant, and moisturizing properties.

Thickeners and Gelling Agents

  • Carbomer (Product ID: 651): A gelling agent used to increase viscosity and create gel textures. It requires neutralization with an alkali and is sensitive to electrolytes and low pH.
  • Xanthan Gum (Product ID: 216): A natural thickener used to increase the viscosity of formulations, creating a gel texture. A clear gel type is available.
  • PEG-90M: Typically functions as a binder, film former, and thickener in cosmetic products. Information for a specific product was not available.

Emulsifiers and Solubilizers

  • PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Product ID: 6341): An oil-in-water emulsifier used to blend oil and water phases in a formulation.
  • Polysorbate 20 (Product ID: 175): An emulsifier and solubilizer used to disperse oils and fragrances in water-based products.

Active Ingredients

  • Niacinamide (Product ID: 74): Also known as Vitamin B3, it offers multiple skin benefits including reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, redness, and oiliness, while also strengthening the skin barrier.
  • Bisabolol (Product ID: 78): Derived from chamomile, it is known for its skin-soothing and anti-irritant properties. It can also help gently brighten skin by inhibiting melanin production.
  • Retinol (ActiveRelease Retinal, Product ID: 6979): A Vitamin A derivative (specifically Retinaldehyde in an encapsulated form) recognized for its anti-aging effects, particularly in reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The encapsulated form helps improve stability and reduce irritation.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Product ID: 1070): A derivative of licorice extract used to reduce inflammation and allergies, helping to strengthen the skin.
  • Bifida Ferment Lysate (Product ID: 259): A repair activator derived from the fermentation of Bifida bacteria, shown to help repair skin DNA damaged by UVA light.
  • Hydrolyzed Collagen (Collagen HP, Product ID: 7934): An ultra-miniature collagen combined with algae polysaccharide, found to enhance hydration and reduce wrinkles.
  • Polysiphonia Elongata Extract: This is typically a red algae extract used for its potential moisturizing and antioxidant properties. Information for a specific product was not available.
  • Tetrapeptide-26: Peptides are often used in cosmetics for their signaling properties, which can target various skin concerns like anti-aging or skin repair. Information for a specific product was not available.

Preservatives and Stabilizers

  • Hydroxyacetophenone (Product ID: 4306): Functions as an antioxidant to maintain ingredient quality, has a soothing effect, and acts as a preservative booster.
  • Phenoxyethanol (Product ID: 155): A widely used preservative effective against bacteria. It is often combined with other preservatives for broad-spectrum protection.
  • Sodium Benzoate (part of Global Guard, Product ID: 879): A preservative component, often used in combination with Potassium Sorbate, particularly effective in formulations with a pH below 5.5.
  • Potassium Sorbate (Product ID: 843, part of Global Guard ID 879): A preservative component, often used in combination with Sodium Benzoate.
  • Disodium EDTA (Product ID: 184): A chelating agent that binds to metal ions in water, preventing them from interfering with the stability and effectiveness of the formulation.
  • Caprylyl Glycol (Product ID: 744): Used as a preservative booster and solvent, derived from coconut.

pH Adjusters

  • Citric Acid (Product ID: 153): A natural acid used to lower the pH of cosmetic formulations.
  • Potassium Hydroxide: A strong alkali typically used to raise the pH of cosmetic formulations, often used to neutralize Carbomer gels. Information for a specific product was not available.

Other

  • Fragrance: Added to provide a pleasant scent to the product.
  • Maltodextrin (Product ID: 10895): While often used as a texture modifier in food, it can also be used in cosmetics as a film-former or stabilizer.