Gel formulation for scars and dark spots: Ingredient compatibility and suggestions
Question
I want to formulate a gel for scars and dark spots using Onion Extract and Allantoin. I was considering adding other ingredients for faster dark spot reduction, but received feedback that ingredients like Azelaic Acid and Papaya Enzyme might cause instability (liquefying, separation) in a gel made with Pro Polymer due to being electrolytes or having specific pH requirements. Could you provide a stable base gel formula for scars and dark spots using Onion Extract and Allantoin, and suggest compatible ingredients that can be added to help reduce dark spots faster?
Answer
Suggested Base Gel Formula for Scars and Dark Spots
This formula focuses on the key scar and soothing ingredients (Onion Extract, Allantoin) and uses recommended base ingredients for a stable gel.
- Hi-Quercetin® (Onion Extract): 10%
- Allantoin: 0.5%
- PE-1 Aqua (Penetration Enhancer): 3%
- Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 0.8%
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative): 1.0%
- Water (Distilled or Deionized): 84.7%
- Fragrance (optional): q.s. (add a small amount if desired for scent)
Total: 100%
Role of Ingredients:
- Hi-Quercetin® (Onion Extract): Helps heal wounds and prevents scarring.
- Allantoin: Reduces irritation, soothes skin, and supports tissue regeneration.
- PE-1 Aqua: Helps the active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively.
- Pro Polymer™: Creates the gel texture.
- Phenoxyethanol SA: Acts as a broad-spectrum preservative to keep the product safe and stable.
- Water: The base of the gel.
General Mixing Instructions:
- Measure the water.
- Dissolve Allantoin in the water phase.
- Add PE-1 Aqua to the water phase.
- Slowly sprinkle Pro Polymer™ onto the surface of the water phase while stirring gently until dispersed. Avoid high-speed mixing at this stage.
- Let the mixture sit for some time (e.g., 1 day, as per Pro Polymer instructions for easier dissolution) or stir slowly until the Pro Polymer is fully hydrated and the mixture is uniform.
- Neutralize the Pro Polymer™ with a suitable base (like Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution) while stirring until the gel forms.
- Add Hi-Quercetin® (Onion Extract).
- Add Phenoxyethanol SA and fragrance (if using).
- Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are evenly distributed in the gel.
Note: Ensure your workspace and equipment are clean and sanitized before mixing.
Adding Ingredients for Faster Dark Spot Reduction
You asked about adding ingredients to make dark spots fade faster. As the staff mentioned, combining exfoliants and whitening agents is effective.
Given the base formula uses Pro Polymer, which can be sensitive to electrolytes and low pH, adding certain actives requires careful consideration.
A good and generally compatible ingredient to add for dark spot reduction is Niacinamide (Safe-B3™). It is known for reducing hyperpigmentation, strengthening the skin barrier, and can be used at up to 10% (Safe-B3™ type) without causing flushing. You could add 5-10% Niacinamide to the formula. If you add Niacinamide, you would reduce the water percentage accordingly to keep the total at 100%.
- Example with 5% Niacinamide:*
- Hi-Quercetin® (Onion Extract): 10%
- Allantoin: 0.5%
- Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5%
- PE-1 Aqua: 3%
- Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 0.8%
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative): 1.0%
- Water (Distilled or Deionized): 79.7%
- Fragrance (optional): q.s.
Other ingredients like certain Vitamin C derivatives (e.g., Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) or exfoliants (like FruitPeel™, Willow Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid EZ™) can also help with dark spots. However, some of these have specific pH requirements or compatibility issues (for example, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid are not compatible with Niacinamide, and Salicylic Acid EZ should be fully dissolved before adding the gel maker). Incorporating these might require more advanced formulation knowledge to ensure stability and effectiveness. For a first attempt, starting with the base formula and potentially adding Niacinamide is a simpler approach.
Remember to always check the recommended usage rates and mixing instructions for each specific ingredient you purchase.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Salicylic Acid EZ™ (ชนิดละลายน้ำ)
PE-1 Aqua
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Papaya Enzyme (Papain)