Gel Formulation with B3, Azelaic, Tranexamic: Mixing & Fragrance
Question
Regarding a cosmetic formulation containing the following ingredients: Water, Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide), Glycerin, Diglycerin, Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol), Tranexamic Acid, Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20), Carbomer (Carbomer 940), Triethanolamine 99%, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate (Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA)), Ethyl Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether), Fragrance, Pentylene Glycol. I would like to inquire about 1. The mixing procedure. 2. The type of fragrance that should be used.
Answer
Mixing Steps
- Prepare the Water Phase: In a clean container, combine Water, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Diglycerin, Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule), Super-HYA™, and Pentylene Glycol. Stir or mix until all ingredients are dissolved or dispersed evenly.
- Disperse Carbomer: Slowly sprinkle the Carbomer 940 powder into the water phase mixture while stirring continuously. Mix thoroughly to ensure the Carbomer is fully dispersed and no clumps remain. Let it hydrate for a while as per the product's instructions if needed, although the EasyDisperse™ type is designed to hydrate quickly.
- Neutralize and Gel: Add Triethanolamine 99% drop by drop to the mixture while stirring gently. Continue mixing until the Carbomer is neutralized and a clear gel forms. Avoid high-speed mixing, which can degrade the gel structure.
- Add Active Ingredients:
- In a separate small container, dissolve Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) in a small amount of water. Add this solution to the main gel mixture and mix until fully incorporated.
- Add Tranexamic Acid directly to the gel base and mix until dissolved.
- Ensure the temperature of the mixture is below 40°C. Add Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and mix well.
- Add Preservative: Add Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) to the mixture and mix until evenly distributed.
- Add Fragrance: In a very small container, mix your chosen cosmetic fragrance oil with Polysorbate 20 to solubilize the fragrance in the water-based system. Add this solubilized fragrance mixture to the main gel and mix gently.
- Final Adjustments: Check the pH of the final product. The optimal pH range for Safe-B3™ is 4.0-7.0, and for Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) it is 5-11. Aim for a final pH between 5.0 and 7.0 to ensure the stability and efficacy of these ingredients.
Important Note regarding Vitamin B3 and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: Your list includes both Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether). According to the product description for Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, it should not be used in formulas containing Vitamin B3. Combining these two ingredients can lead to the formation of Niacin, which may cause skin flushing or redness. It is recommended to choose either Safe-B3™ or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid for your formulation, but not both in the same product, to avoid potential skin irritation and ensure ingredient stability. The mixing steps above are provided assuming you proceed with Safe-B3™ and exclude Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
Fragrance Type
For a water-based gel formulation like this, you should use a cosmetic-grade fragrance oil that is suitable for use in leave-on skin products. Since fragrance oils are typically oil-soluble, you will need to use a solubilizer like Polysorbate 20 (which is already in your list) to disperse the fragrance evenly throughout the water-based gel. This prevents the fragrance from separating and ensures a clear product.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Triethanolamine 99%
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
Disodium EDTA
Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Pentylene Glycol (Low-Odor)