Gel Serum Formula Review and Mixing Method for Dull, Dry Combination Skin

Asked by: kunsuda_dean On: November 01, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a dull, slightly dry combination skin type and want to create a gel serum for brightening and hydration. I have formulated the following recipe and would like feedback on the ingredient percentages, suitability for my skin type, and the mixing procedure:

  • Xanthan Gum: 5%
  • Natto Gum: 5%
  • Willow Bark Extract: 3%
  • Vitamin B3: 4%
  • NAG: 4%
  • Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
  • Paper Mulberry Extract: 4%
  • Curculigo Orchioides Extract: 4%
  • Distilled Water: 73%

Please review this formula and mixing method. I am particularly concerned about the high percentage of Xanthan Gum and how to properly incorporate all ingredients, especially the plant extracts.

Answer

Formula and Mixing Method Review

Thank you for sharing your formula and mixing method. Based on your skin type (dull, slightly dry combination skin) and the ingredients you've chosen, here is a review and some suggestions:

Formula Review

Your formula includes several good ingredients for brightening and hydration, such as Natto Gum, Vitamin B3, and NAG. Willow Bark Extract is also beneficial for exfoliation and improving skin texture.

  • Xanthan Gum: Your proposed concentration of 5% is quite high for creating a gel texture. Typically, 1-2% is sufficient. Using 5% may result in a very thick or gummy texture. We recommend reducing the concentration to 1-2% as suggested by the staff.
  • Natto Gum: The concentration of 5% is within the recommended usage range.
  • Willow Bark Extract: Your proposed 3% is within the general usage range. However, increasing it to 5% as suggested by the staff can provide more noticeable exfoliation and help address dullness more effectively.
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Your proposed 4% is within the recommended range. Increasing it slightly towards the recommended 5% can further enhance its benefits for brightening and improving skin barrier function, which helps with moisture.
  • NAG (Acetyl Glucosamine): Your proposed 4% is within the recommended range and works well in combination with Vitamin B3 for addressing dark spots and improving skin tone.
  • Mild Preserved Eco: Your proposed 1% is within the recommended range for preservation.
  • Paper Mulberry Extract and Curculigo Orchioides Extract: We do not have specific product information or usage guidelines for these two extracts. Therefore, we cannot provide specific recommendations regarding their concentration or compatibility in this formula.
  • Distilled Water: The total percentage of your ingredients (excluding water) is 30% (5+5+3+4+4+1+4+4). Adding 73% water results in a total of 103%, which is incorrect. The water percentage should be adjusted so that the total formula equals 100%. Based on the staff's suggestions and adjusting Vitamin B3 slightly, a revised ingredient total might be around 29.5% (1.5% Xanthan Gum + 5% Natto Gum + 5% Willow Bark + 5% Vitamin B3 + 4% NAG + 1% Mild Preserved Eco + 4% Paper Mulberry + 4% Curculigo Orchioides). This would require approximately 70.5% distilled water.

Revised Formula Suggestion

Based on the above points, here is a suggested revised formula (assuming 1.5% Xanthan Gum and 5% Vitamin B3):

  • Xanthan Gum: 1.5%
  • Natto Gum: 5%
  • Willow Bark Extract: 5%
  • Vitamin B3: 5%
  • NAG: 4%
  • Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
  • Paper Mulberry Extract: 4% (Note: Information on this ingredient is limited)
  • Curculigo Orchioides Extract: 4% (Note: Information on this ingredient is limited)
  • Distilled water: 70.5%

Total: 100%

Mixing Method Review

The mixing method provided by the staff is generally correct for a water-based gel. Here are the steps with some additional considerations:

  1. Combine the Distilled water and all water-soluble ingredients except Xanthan Gum and Mild Preserved Eco. This includes Natto Gum, Willow Bark Extract, Vitamin B3, NAG, Paper Mulberry Extract, and Curculigo Orchioides Extract. Stir or blend until everything is fully dissolved. Important: Avoid heating this mixture or use minimal low heat only if absolutely necessary for dissolving certain components, and for a very short duration. Ingredients like Willow Bark Extract, Vitamin B3, and NAG can be sensitive to high heat.
  2. Slowly add the Xanthan Gum to the mixture while stirring or blending continuously at a high speed. Continue until a smooth, uniform gel texture is formed.
  3. Finally, add the Mild Preserved Eco to the gel and stir or blend until it is completely incorporated.

Remember to perform a challenge test on your final product to ensure the preservative system is effective.