Gentle Cleansing Liquid/Gel Formulation Issues (Thickener Clumping & Compatibility)

Question

I am trying to formulate a gentle cleansing liquid or gel that can be used without cotton pads to remove makeup, sunscreen, and mascara without irritating the eyes. I have attempted two formulations:

Using Xanthan Gum:
- Water
- Disodium EDTA
- Eye Preserved
- MakeUp-Wash™
- Xanthan Gum
When mixing Water, Disodium EDTA, Eye Preserved, MakeUp-Wash™, and Xanthan Gum, the Xanthan Gum forms undissolved clumps, even when heating the beaker in hot water and blending.
Using Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC):
- Water
- disodium edta
- eye preserved
- makeup wash
- HEC
When mixing Water, disodium edta, eye preserved, makeup wash, and HEC by heating the beaker in hot water and blending, the HEC forms clear lumps and does not become a uniform texture, although it doesn't settle completely like a precipitate.

Could you please advise on the correct mixing procedure to avoid clumping with these thickeners and suggest a suitable formulation approach for a gentle, non-irritating cleansing liquid/gel?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Gentle Cleansing Liquid/Gel Formula

You're looking for a gentle, non-cotton cleansing liquid or gel that effectively removes makeup, sunscreen, and mascara without eye irritation. Based on your desired ingredients and the previous discussion, here is a formula concept and mixing guide.

Key Ingredients and Their Roles

Water: The base of the formula.
Disodium EDTA: Helps improve the stability of the formula by binding to metal ions in the water.
MakeUp-Wash™: A gentle cleansing agent that forms micelles to effectively remove makeup and impurities without drying the skin.
Thickener (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose): Provides the desired gel or thickened liquid texture so the product can be massaged onto the skin without cotton pads.
Eye Preserved™: A preservative suitable for formulas used around the eyes due to its gentleness.

Ingredient Compatibility

It's important to note that Eye Preserved™ is incompatible with anionic ingredients like Xanthan Gum. Since you want to use Eye Preserved™ for gentleness around the eyes, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) is the recommended thickener for this formula as it is non-ionic and compatible.

Basic Formula Concept

Here is a starting point for your formula. You can adjust the percentage of the thickener to achieve your desired viscosity.

Water: up to 100%
Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
MakeUp-Wash™: 3-5%
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC): 0.5-3% (adjust for desired thickness)
Eye Preserved™: 0.5-1.5%

Mixing Instructions

To address the clumping issues you experienced, follow these steps carefully:

In your water phase, add Disodium EDTA to the water and mix until dissolved.
To incorporate Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) and create the gel texture, you will need to heat the water phase. Heat the water containing Disodium EDTA to approximately 70°C. While blending the hot water continuously (using a high-speed blender if possible), slowly sprinkle the HEC powder into the vortex. Continue blending until the HEC is fully dispersed and starts to thicken as it cools. Alternatively, you can disperse the HEC in cold water while blending, then heat the mixture to 70°C while continuing to blend, and finally blend until it cools down and forms a gel. Continuous blending during cooling is key for a smooth gel.
Once the gel has formed and cooled, add MakeUp-Wash™ and mix gently until fully incorporated. Avoid creating too much foam.
Finally, add Eye Preserved™ and mix gently until evenly distributed. Eye Preserved™ should be added in the final step as it can affect the viscosity of the gel.

Important Considerations

Always use clean, preferably distilled or deionized water. If using tap water, boiling it first and using Disodium EDTA is recommended.
The recommended pH range for Eye Preserved™ is 3-8, with 3-6.5 being optimal for germ protection. Check the final pH of your formula and adjust if necessary.
As with any cosmetic product, especially one for sale, a challenge test is required to ensure the preservative system is effective against microbial growth over time.

This formula provides a gentle, effective, and non-stinging cleansing option that can be used without cotton pads.