Guidance on Modifying Sunscreen Formula with Powders

Asked by: yut_moka On: November 06, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following base sunscreen formula from the manufacturer:

  • Distilled Water 63%
  • LipidSoft™ or LipidSoft™ CC or LipidSoft™ Palm or LipidSoft™ Lite (choose based on desired texture) 20%
  • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ 10%
  • Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™ 5%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

The manufacturer mentioned that the formula can be modified. I have purchased additional ingredients to add:

  • MatteSilica (planning to add 5%)
  • Silk Mica Powder
  • Pearl White Mica
  • Beige Iron Oxides

I am concerned about making a mistake during mixing. I would like guidance to ensure success. My specific questions are:

  1. At which step should I add MatteSilica?
  2. At which step should I add Silk Mica Powder, Pearl White Mica, and Beige Iron Oxides?
  3. What percentage of Silk Mica Powder should I add to the sunscreen cream formula? The manufacturer's usage rate is very broad (1-100%) and doesn't specify for sunscreen cream.

Answer

Guidance on Modifying Your Sunscreen Formula

It's great that you're looking to customize your sunscreen formula! Adding ingredients like MatteSilica, Silk Mica Powder, Pearl White Mica, and Beige Iron Oxides can enhance the feel and appearance of the product. Here's a guide on when to add these ingredients and the recommended usage for Silk Mica Powder:

1. When to add MatteSilica

MatteSilica is typically added in the final step of your formulation, after the cream has been fully formed. This helps to ensure even dispersion and provides the desired mattifying and oil-absorbing properties without interfering with the emulsification process. If your formula contains an oil phase, you can also consider dispersing the MatteSilica in the water phase first before combining the phases, but adding it to the finished cream is generally simpler for this type of formula.

2. When to add Silk Mica Powder, Pearl White Mica, and Beige Iron Oxides

These powders are pigments and fillers. They should be dispersed in the oil phase of your formula before you combine the oil and water phases to create the emulsion. Ensure they are well dispersed in the oil to avoid clumps and achieve a smooth, even color and texture in the final product.

3. Recommended percentage for Silk Mica Powder

Silk Mica Powder can be used in a wide range (1-100%), but for a sunscreen cream, a typical usage rate to provide softness, lightness, and natural coverage without making the product too powdery or heavy is usually between 1% and 3%. You can start with 1% and adjust based on your desired feel and coverage.

By following these steps, you should be able to successfully incorporate your new ingredients into your sunscreen formula and achieve the desired results. Good luck with your formulation!