Hair Conditioner Formulation: Viscosity and Ingredients
Question
Regarding hair conditioner formulations, can these formulas be mixed?
Formula 1
- Poly-Conditioner Pro (30000 mPa.s) 3%
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 0.5%
- Herbal oil extract 1%
- Tween 20 1%
- Herbal water 94.5%
Formula 2
- GuarCat™ Standard 1%
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 0.5%
- Herbal oil extract 1%
- Tween 20 1%
- Herbal water 96.5%
I would like to know if these two formulas will have sufficient viscosity, or if any additional ingredients are needed.
Answer
Hair Conditioner Formula Analysis
Let's analyze your two hair conditioner formulas regarding their potential viscosity and suggest possible improvements.
Formula 1 Analysis
- Poly-Conditioner Pro (30000 mPa.s) at 3%: This ingredient is a conditioning polymer that also acts as a thickener. The product description indicates it provides high thickness, but the typical recommended usage rate for thickening is around 0.1-0.5%. Using it at 3% is significantly higher than this recommendation. While this will definitely make the formula very thick, it might result in an overly viscous or gel-like texture that isn't ideal for a conditioner, and could potentially lead to stability issues or affect the feel of the product negatively due to the high concentration.
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) at 0.5%: This is a good ingredient for moisturizing and strengthening hair and is used at an appropriate concentration for hair care.
- Herbal oil extract (1%) and Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) (1%): Polysorbate 20 is a solubilizer/emulsifier. At 1%, it may help disperse the 1% oil, but it might not create a stable, creamy emulsion typical of conditioners. The viscosity in this formula is primarily driven by the high level of Poly-Conditioner Pro.
Conclusion for Formula 1: This formula will likely be very thick, possibly too thick, due to the excessive amount of Poly-Conditioner Pro (30000 mPa.s) relative to its recommended usage for thickening. It might not have the desired creamy conditioner texture.
Formula 2 Analysis
- GuarCat™ Standard at 1%: This is a cationic guar gum that functions as a conditioner and thickener. The description states it helps make formulas more viscous and provides softness. The recommended usage rate is 0.1-1.0%, so 1% is at the higher end of the effective range. This concentration should provide good viscosity and conditioning.
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) at 0.5%: Similar to Formula 1, this adds moisturizing and strengthening benefits at a suitable concentration.
- Herbal oil extract (1%) and Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) (1%): As in Formula 1, Polysorbate 20 at 1% may help with oil dispersion but might not create a stable, creamy emulsion on its own.
Conclusion for Formula 2: This formula is more likely to achieve a suitable conditioner viscosity compared to Formula 1, as the GuarCat™ Standard is used within its recommended range for thickening and conditioning.
Recommendations for Improvement
Both formulas are missing a critical ingredient for any water-based cosmetic product: a preservative. Without a preservative, the formulas are prone to microbial contamination and will not be safe or stable for storage and use. You must add a suitable preservative system.
To improve the viscosity, texture, and overall conditioning performance, especially to achieve a creamy conditioner consistency and better detangling, consider adding:
- Fatty Alcohols: Ingredients like Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol are essential for building viscosity and creating a creamy texture in conditioners. They work synergistically with cationic conditioning agents.
- Additional Cationic Conditioning Agents/Emulsifiers: Ingredients such as Behentrimonium Chloride or Cetrimonium Chloride are effective cationic surfactants that provide significant conditioning and help form stable emulsions with fatty alcohols.
For Formula 2, incorporating fatty alcohols and a suitable emulsifier system would significantly enhance its viscosity and conditioning properties, resulting in a more characteristic creamy conditioner texture. For Formula 1, it would be best to reduce the Poly-Conditioner Pro (30000 mPa.s) to a lower concentration (closer to 0.1-0.5%) and build viscosity using a combination of fatty alcohols and other conditioning/emulsifying ingredients for better performance and stability.
Related Products Mentioned
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
GuarCat™ Standard (1,000-5,000mpas)