Hair Wax Formula: Adding Ingredients, Opacity, and Matte Finish

Asked by: sootthisak.ch On: November 01, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a hair wax formula with the following ingredients:

  • 30% Paste Maker™
  • 10% Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)
  • 5% Propylene Glycol
  • 2% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
  • 2% Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
  • 3% Dimethicone (Medium, Low-Odor)
  • 1% Polyvinylpyrrolidone K90 (PVP-K90)
  • 1% Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus)
  • 0.5% Essential Oil
  • 45.5% Water

I have a few questions regarding this formula:

  1. When should I add heat-sensitive ingredients like Phenoxyethanol SA and Essential Oil? I find it difficult to dispense the product if I wait until the temperature drops below 40°C.
  2. How can I make the formula opaque white?
  3. How can I reduce the shine to achieve a matte finish on the hair?

Answer

Hair Wax Formula Questions

Here is the information regarding your hair wax formula and questions:

1. Difficulty Dispensing While Cooling

Based on the advice provided, you do not need to wait for the temperature to drop below 40°C to add heat-sensitive ingredients like Phenoxyethanol SA and Essential Oil. You can add these ingredients at approximately 60°C during the cool-down phase, right after turning off the heat. This temperature allows the mixture to remain liquid enough for easier incorporation and dispensing while protecting the integrity of the heat-sensitive components. Ensure thorough mixing after adding them.

2. Achieving an Opaque White Color

To achieve an opaque white color in your formula, you can replace the 2% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil with 2% Beeswax (Cera Alba). Beeswax is effective in providing opacity and structure to formulations. You can adjust the percentage of Beeswax slightly if needed to achieve your desired level of whiteness, ensuring the total formula percentage remains 100%.

3. Reducing Shine for a Matte Finish

To reduce the shine and create a matte finish on the hair, you can add ingredients known for oil absorption and texture modification. Suitable options include various powders and starches. Consider adding a small percentage (typically 1-5%) of one or a combination of the following:

  • Silica Powders: Ingredients like MatteSilica 5™, MatteSilica 5S™ (Dimethicone Coated), UltraBlur™ (Skin Blurring Silica), or Anti-Caking Silica can absorb excess oil and provide a matte appearance.
  • Clays: Kaolin (China Clay) is another effective oil absorber that contributes to a matte look.
  • Starches: Ricesorb ™ (Rice Starch) can absorb oil and provide a dry, matte feel.

Add these powders during the cooling phase, after incorporating the heat-sensitive ingredients but while the mixture is still warm enough for even dispersion. You may need to experiment with the percentage to achieve the desired matte effect.