Herbal Hair & Scalp Serum Formulation with Fractionated Coconut Oil

Question

I would like to create a hair serum using 5 types of herbs: Wan Sao Long, Equisetum (Horsetail), Licorice, Acanthus, and Black Sesame. The goal is to nourish the hair roots and scalp with the following objectives:

Reduce irritation
Treat thin, weak hair and prevent hair fall
Increase moisture and reduce frizz
Provide hair nutrients and sun protection

I have planned an initial formula using Fractionated Coconut Oil as the base and solvent:

Fractionated Coconut Oil: 50%
Herbal Extracts (using Fractionated Coconut Oil as solvent): 5% each (Total 25%)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Biotin
Keratin

Please provide recommendations on missing components, adjust the formula for better results, and include the step-by-step preparation process.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Herbal Hair & Scalp Serum Formulation (Oil-Based)

To create a high-quality hair serum using Fractionated Coconut Oil as a base with your 5 chosen herbs, we need to address the solubility of the ingredients. Since your base is 100% oil (anhydrous), water-soluble ingredients like standard Biotin and Keratin will not dissolve and will precipitate at the bottom.

I have adjusted your formula to ensure stability, sun protection, and a professional "serum" feel (non-greasy, frizz-reducing).

Recommended Formula (100g)

Phase A: Oil Base & Texture

Fractionated Coconut Oil: 45.0% (Base and solvent)
C15-19 Alkane (Emogreen L15): 20.0% (Provides a "dry oil" feel, reduces frizz, and makes the serum spread easily without being heavy)
5 Herbal Oil Extracts: 5.0% each (Total 25.0%)
- Note: Ensure these are oil-based extracts. If you are making them yourself, the herbs must be completely dry before infusing in oil to prevent spoilage.

Phase B: Actives & Protection

Polysilicone-15: 2.0% (Specialized UV filter for hair to prevent sun damage and color fading)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 1.0% (Antioxidant for the scalp and to prevent the herbal oils from going rancid)
Glycyrrhizic acid (Oil Soluble Licorice Extract): 1.0% (Specifically for reducing scalp irritation and inflammation)
Bisabolol (Natural): 1.0% (Optional - highly recommended for soothing the scalp and reducing irritation)
Fragrance/Essential Oil: 5.0% (Optional)

Why Biotin and Keratin were removed:

Biotin (Pure Biotin) and Keratin (Hydrolyzed Keratin) are water-soluble. In a 100% oil serum, they will not mix.
Recommendation: If you strictly want Biotin and Keratin, you must change the formula to a Cream/Lotion Serum (Emulsion) or a Bi-phase Serum (Oil + Water that you shake before use). For a pure oil serum, the herbal extracts and Vitamin E already provide significant nutrients for the hair.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Prepare Herbal Extracts: Infuse your 5 dry herbs (Wan Sao Long, Equisetum, Licorice, Acanthus, Black Sesame) in Fractionated Coconut Oil. Use a ratio of roughly 1 part herb to 2 parts oil. Heat gently (60-70°C) for 2-3 hours, then filter through a fine cloth.
Mixing: In a clean beaker, combine the Fractionated Coconut Oil, C15-19 Alkane, and your Herbal Oil Extracts. Stir until uniform.
Add Actives: Add Polysilicone-15, Vitamin E, and Oil-Soluble Licorice. Stir until the mixture is completely clear.
Finalize: Add fragrance if desired. Pour into a dark glass bottle with a pump or dropper to protect the herbal extracts from light.

Benefits of this formula:

Root & Scalp Care: Licorice and Acanthus (in oil form) help soothe the scalp.
Anti-Frizz: The combination of Coconut oil and C15-19 Alkane coats the hair to lock in moisture and stop frizz.
Sun Protection: Polysilicone-15 protects the hair protein from UV degradation.
Strengthening: Equisetum (Horsetail) is naturally rich in silica, which strengthens the hair shaft when extracted into oil.