High Coverage Foundation Lotion Formula (Prevents Greying)

Asked by: kaenchan.puechphaitoon On: October 02, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am looking for a foundation formula. I've seen example formulas using ingredients like Silky Serum Base Plus, Silicone Blender, Titanium Dioxide, Silk Sericite Powder, Dimethicone, Tribehenin, Silicone Film, Mild Preserved Eco, and Oil-Fix. Could you provide a formula for a foundation, perhaps one that offers good coverage and prevents the issue of the product causing a "greying" effect on the skin?

Answer

High Coverage Foundation Lotion Formula (Does Not Turn Grey)

This formula is a Water-in-Oil Emulsion, which helps pigments disperse well, provides high coverage, and offers better longevity and water resistance compared to typical Oil-in-Water formulas.

Ingredients:

  • Part A (Oil Phase):
    • Isododecane (or other suitable non-polar oil/silicone): 25%
    • Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor): 8%
    • Silicone Blender: 4%
    • Tribehenin (Soft Wax, USA): 4%
    • Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft): 4%
    • Water-in-Oil EZ™: 3%
  • Part B (Powder Phase - Disperse in Part A):
    • Titanium Dioxide FoundationPro™: 12%
    • Iron Oxides Yellow (FoundationPro™): 2%
    • Iron Oxides Red (FoundationPro™): 1%
    • Iron Oxides Black (FoundationPro™): 0.3%
    • Sericite Powder (CompactPro™, Matte, Dimethicone Coated): 8%
    • Oil-Fix™ W: 2%
  • Part C (Water Phase):
    • Water: 24.7% (Balance to 100%)
    • Mild Preserved Eco™: 1%
    • Magnesium Sulfate: 1%

Mixing Procedure:

  1. Combine all ingredients in Part A. Gently heat to approximately 60-70°C to melt the Tribehenin. Stir or blend until uniform.
  2. Add ingredients from Part B to the warm Part A. Stir or blend well to ensure pigments and other powders are fully dispersed. High shear mixing (like a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) is recommended for fine pigment dispersion to prevent greying and ensure a smooth texture.
  3. Combine all ingredients in Part C. Gently heat to a similar temperature as Part A+B. Stir or blend until Magnesium Sulfate and Mild Preserved Eco™ are dissolved/dispersed.
  4. Slowly add Part C to Part A+B in small increments while continuously stirring or blending. Ensure each addition is fully emulsified before adding more. Continue until all of Part C is added and a homogeneous emulsion is formed.
  5. Continue stirring or blending as the mixture cools down until a smooth lotion texture is achieved.

Color Adjustment:

The shade of the foundation can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the proportions of the different Iron Oxides (Yellow, Red, Black) to match the desired skin tone.

  • Increase Yellow Iron Oxides for warmer skin tones.
  • Increase Red Iron Oxides for pinker skin tones.
  • Increase Black Iron Oxides for deeper shades.

The amount of Titanium Dioxide FoundationPro™ affects the overall lightness and coverage.