How to Make Mandelic Acid 30% Serum

Subject: How to make Mandelic Acid 30% Serum

Based on your inquiry and the staff's response, here is a guide to making a Mandelic Acid 30% serum.

Your original proposed formula:

• Mandelic Acid: 30%
• AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum): 1%
• Isopentyldiol: 2%
• Ethyl Alcohol: 20%
• Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20): 5%
• Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 3%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
• Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin): 0.5%
• Distilled Water: 33.5%

Staff Feedback:

• To dissolve Mandelic Acid at 30%, the staff recommends using a combination of 1,3-Propanediol (Natural), Ethyl Alcohol, and Water. They suggested testing ratios around 35% 1,3-Propanediol, 25% Ethyl Alcohol, and 15% Water to see if 30% Mandelic Acid dissolves completely at room temperature.
• The staff noted they do not have information on whether Isopentyldiol can help dissolve Mandelic Acid at this concentration, but you can try using it as part of your solvent system.
• The staff strongly recommended removing Polysorbate 20 from the formula to reduce skin irritation, as Mandelic Acid at 30% is already quite irritating.

Revised Formula (excluding Polysorbate 20):
Based on the staff's recommendation to remove Polysorbate 20 and your question about keeping other ingredients, the revised formula would be:

• Mandelic Acid: 30%
• AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum): 1%
• Isopentyldiol: 2%
• Ethyl Alcohol: 20%
• Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 3%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
• Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin): 0.5%
• Distilled Water: 38.5% (Increased from 33.5% to compensate for the removed 5% Polysorbate 20)

Method:

1. Combine Mandelic Acid (30%), Isopentyldiol (2%), Ethyl Alcohol (20%), and Distilled Water (38.5%). Stir well to dissolve the Mandelic Acid. Important: As the staff mentioned, you should test if the Mandelic Acid fully dissolves in this solvent mixture at room temperature. If it does not, you may need to adjust the solvent ratio or consider using the staff's suggested solvent system (1,3-Propanediol, Ethyl Alcohol, Water) instead of or in addition to Isopentyldiol.
2. Once the Mandelic Acid is dissolved, add AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum) (1%) and mix thoroughly. Allow time for the gum to hydrate and thicken the serum.
3. Add Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) (3%), Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) (5%), and Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin) (0.5%).
4. Mix all ingredients until the serum is homogeneous.

Please note that a 30% concentration of Mandelic Acid is very high and can cause significant skin irritation. Always perform a patch test before applying to your face.