Hyaluronic Acid Serum Mixing Issue
Question
When formulating a serum for very dry skin using distilled water, 10% 8D Hyaluron, 3% Dimethyl Isosorbide, and 1% Mild Preserve Eco, I encountered difficulty dissolving the 8D Hyaluron. I added it last and tried stirring and blending, but it remained as clear, jelly-like lumps. Even chilling and re-blending only slightly improved the texture. Why did this happen, and what is the correct mixing method? Should I try hydrating the powder with a small amount of water first before combining with the rest of the water phase?
Answer
Hyaluronic Acid Serum Mixing Issue
The clumping issue you encountered when making the hyaluronic acid serum is likely due to the method of adding the 8D Hyaluron. Hyaluronic acid powders, especially multi-molecular weight types, need proper hydration time to fully dissolve and form a smooth gel without lumps.
Adding the 8D Hyaluron as the very last step and attempting to break up the gel lumps by stirring or blending is often ineffective and can make it harder for the powder to hydrate evenly.
Recommended Mixing Method:
- Prepare the Water Phase: Combine the distilled water and Dimethyl Isosorbide. While Dimethyl Isosorbide can aid solubility, the primary issue here is the hydration of the hyaluronic acid itself.
- Add 8D Hyaluron: Slowly sprinkle the 8D Hyaluron powder onto the surface of the water phase while gently stirring. Avoid dumping it all in at once, as this can cause clumping.
- Allow to Hydrate: Let the mixture sit undisturbed for a period (this could be several hours or even overnight, depending on the specific product and concentration). The powder will gradually absorb the water and swell, forming a gel. Soaking at a low temperature (like in the refrigerator) can help speed up this process, as mentioned in the product information for 8D Hyaluronic Acid.
- Gentle Stirring: After the hydration period, you can gently stir or use a low-speed mixer to ensure homogeneity. Avoid high-speed blending initially, as this can introduce air bubbles and potentially degrade the polymer chains.
- Add Preservative: Once the gel is smooth and uniform, add the Mild Preserve Eco and mix gently to incorporate.
Your proposed method of adding water gradually to the powder could also work by creating a concentrated paste first, which might hydrate more easily before diluting. However, the standard method of adding powder to the bulk water phase and allowing sufficient hydration time is usually effective.
The concentration of 10% 8D Hyaluron is within the recommended range (10-20%) for very dry skin, so the issue is likely with the mixing technique rather than the concentration itself.
By allowing the 8D Hyaluron sufficient time to hydrate properly in the water phase, you should be able to achieve a smooth, lump-free serum.
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