Addressing Cream/Lotion Texture Issues and Dimethicone Usage

Based on your current formulation using Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, shea butter, jojoba oil, mineral oil, vitamin E, glycerin, and urea, the difficulty in spreading and the appearance of white residue are likely due to the high levels of fatty alcohols (Stearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol) and the overall heavy oil/butter phase. These ingredients contribute significantly to the thickness and feel of the cream, but can also cause drag and the visible white streaks, especially if not fully emulsified or if used at high concentrations.

Adding Dimethicone can help improve the spreadability and provide a smoother, more "slippery" feel on the skin, which addresses the "difficult to spread" issue. However, it may not completely eliminate the white residue if the primary cause is the high level of fatty alcohols and the emulsifier system used.

Here are the answers to your specific questions about Dimethicone:

1. Percentage to add: Dimethicone can be added at a concentration of 0.5% to 10% in most cosmetic formulations like creams and lotions. The exact percentage depends on the desired skin feel – higher percentages will give a more pronounced smooth, slippery, and silky feel. The usage percentage doesn't strictly differ between cream and lotion; it depends more on the overall formula composition and the desired texture and slip.

2. When and how to add: Dimethicone is typically added to the oil phase of your formulation. It does not require heating and can be mixed in at room temperature along with other oil-soluble ingredients. Ensure it is well dispersed in the oil phase before combining with the water phase.

3. Special precautions: Dimethicone itself is generally stable and easy to work with. However, when incorporating it into an emulsion, ensure your emulsifier system is compatible with silicones. Some emulsifiers, like Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™, can incorporate silicones (e.g., Light Cream Maker™ up to 10%, Satin Cream Maker™ up to 20%). Avoid excessive high-speed mixing (above 2500 rpm) when using polymer-based emulsifiers, as this can potentially affect the stability and texture.

4. Safety: Dimethicone is a widely used and well-studied cosmetic ingredient considered safe for topical application in the concentrations typically used in skincare products.

5. Will it help solve the problem?: Adding Dimethicone will significantly improve the spreadability and the skin feel, making the cream or lotion easier to apply and less likely to drag. However, the white residue is primarily caused by the solid fatty alcohols (Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol) and the emulsification system. To effectively reduce or eliminate the white residue, you should consider adjusting your formula by:

   • Reducing the amount of Stearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol.
   • Changing the emulsifier system. As suggested previously, using emulsifiers like Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™ can create lighter textures that are less prone to white residue, even with a significant oil phase. Light Cream Maker™ gives a light, smooth feel, while Satin Cream Maker™ provides a soft, smooth, pearl white cream and can handle higher oil/silicone loads. If you prefer a quick-absorbing, dry finish, Warp Cream Maker™ is another option.

To achieve the desired thick lotion/cream or body butter texture without the white residue and difficulty spreading, it is recommended to experiment with different emulsifiers that are designed to create stable, smooth textures with various oil loads, and adjust the levels of fatty alcohols and oils accordingly. Once you have a base texture you like, you can add Dimethicone to further enhance the slip and spreadability.