Improving Hair Straightening Formula for Shine, Hydration, and Creamy Texture
Question
I am seeking assistance to improve my hair straightening formula. Currently, my formula consists of the following ingredients and percentages:
- Water:
30.8% - EDTA:
0.22% - Betaine:
2.5% - Silk protein:
1.0% - Glycerin:
1.64% - Acrylate (acrylic):
6.0% - Hair Cond 0949:
1.0% - Cyclopentasiloxane:
2.0% - Microquat 16:
2.0% - Bis-aminopropyl (silicone):
1.0% - Clear Cond:
0.6% - Phynyl trimethicone:
0.6% - Glyoxyloyl 5%:
5.0% - Glyoxylic acid (50%):
40.0% - Preservative:
0.6% - Fragrance:
0.72%
Despite using an 'acid cream maker' to thicken the formula, the texture is not like a cream. Furthermore, after washing the hair, it appears dull, lacks shine and hydration, and the straightening effect is very low. I observed that the hair was shiny immediately after applying the formula, but after washing the formula out (before ironing), drying the hair, and then applying the iron, there was no shine.
I need to fix this formula to achieve the following:
100%straight hair.- A cream-like texture.
- Maximum shine and hydration.
- Hair repair benefits.
Answer
We understand you are looking to achieve 100% straight hair with maximum shine, hydration, and repair, along with a cream-like texture for your formula. Your current formula uses Glyoxylic acid, and you have identified KeraStraight™ as a relevant product.
Here are our recommendations to improve your hair straightening formula:
1. For 100% Straightening Effect and Hair Repair
Your current formula uses a high percentage of Glyoxylic acid. While Glyoxylic acid is a straightening agent, our KeraStraight™ product (Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine and Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids) is specifically designed to provide effective, gentle straightening while also offering hair repair benefits due to its keratin amino acid content. We recommend replacing your Glyoxyloyl and Glyoxylic acid components with KeraStraight™ at a concentration of 20% for optimal results.
Crucial Application Steps for KeraStraight™:
To achieve the best straightening, shine, and hydration, it is vital to follow the application steps precisely:
- Preparation: Wash and rinse hair thoroughly, ensuring no shampoo residue. Blow dry completely.
- Application: Gently spread and apply the formula on hair from roots to ends, leave for 15 minutes.
- Pre-Ironing Dry: Blow dry hair again, combing and straightening it.
- Heat Activation: Use a hair straightener at 200-230 degrees Celsius. This heat is essential to activate KeraStraight™ and achieve the straightening effect. Avoid higher temperatures as this can degrade the active ingredients.
- Post-Ironing: Leave for at least 15 minutes after ironing, then wash and/or condition your hair again. Your observation of dullness after washing might be due to not performing this final wash/condition step, which removes residues and reveals the treated hair's shine and softness.
2. For Cream-Like Texture
To achieve a stable, cream-like texture, we suggest incorporating a combination of fatty alcohols and cationic conditioning agents. These ingredients work synergistically to build viscosity and create a rich, luxurious feel. Consider adding:
- Cetearyl Alcohol (e.g., 6-8%): A fatty alcohol that provides thickening, emulsification, and emollient properties.
- Cationic Conditioning Agent (e.g., BTAC - Behentrimonium Chloride or similar, 2-3%): These not only contribute to thickening but also provide excellent conditioning, detangling, and anti-static benefits, which are crucial for hair feel and shine.
Your current Acrylate (acrylic) thickener can be used in conjunction with these, or adjusted, depending on the desired rheology.
3. For Maximum Shine, Hydration, and Hair Repair
Beyond the benefits of KeraStraight™ itself, you can enhance shine, hydration, and repair by:
- Increasing Glycerin: You can increase the concentration of Glycerin (e.g., to 3-5%) for enhanced humectant properties and hydration.
- Adding Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Incorporating 1% Panthenol can significantly boost hydration, improve hair elasticity, and add shine.
- Adding a Conditioning Polymer (e.g., Poly-Conditioner Eco): A conditioning polymer at 1% can further improve wet and dry combability, reduce frizz, and enhance the overall feel and shine of the hair.
- Optimizing Silicones: Your current silicones (Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-aminopropyl silicone, Phenyl trimethicone) are good for shine and conditioning. Ensure they are well-emulsified and compatible within the new cream base.
By adjusting your formula to include KeraStraight™ and optimizing your base for texture, hydration, and repair, while strictly following the application protocol, you should be able to achieve the 100% straight, shiny, hydrated, and repaired hair you desire. Please feel free to contact our technical team for further formulation guidance.
Follow-up Replies
Question:
I am developing a hair straightening formula and have several questions regarding its application, formulation, and ingredient choices, particularly concerning a cold-process approach.
Rinsing Protocol and Odor/Smoke:
I've observed that if rinsing is not performed before ironing, the smell and smoke are very strong. Many Brazilian hair straightening products utilize a rinse base before blow-drying and ironing. What is the recommended protocol, especially when considering products like KeraStraight™?CreamMaker Acid™Addition Timing:
When is the appropriate time to addCreamMaker Acid™in the formulation process? Should it be added after the main acid ingredient, or before/after the emulsion has formed?Impact of Polymer on Straightening:
Does the amount of polymer added, such asPoly-Conditioner Eco, hinder the hair straightening process?Cold Process Formulation and Fatty Alcohol Alternatives:
I am aiming to create a completely cold-process formula to save energy, primarily usingCreamMaker Acid™.- Is it necessary to use fatty alcohols (e.g., Cetearyl Alcohol) in such a formula?
- Are there effective alternatives that can provide a similar texture and effect in a cold-process formulation?
Alternatives to Glycerin for Hydration:
Are there any ingredients that offer superior or comparable hydration benefits to glycerin in a hair straightening product?Blending
KeraStraight™and Glyoxylic Acid:
Is it feasible to create a blend ofKeraStraight™andglyoxylic acidto achieve a more balanced cost for the final product? What are the considerations for such a blend?
Answer:
We appreciate your detailed questions and insights regarding your hair straightening formula. Let's address each of your points to refine your approach.
1. Rinsing Before Ironing and Post-Ironing Wash
We understand your concern about strong smell and smoke if rinsing is not done before ironing, and that many Brazilian products follow a rinse-base protocol.
For KeraStraight™, the recommended protocol is to not rinse the product out before blow-drying and ironing. The active ingredients in KeraStraight™ require the heat from the iron to activate and bond with the hair structure for the straightening effect. Rinsing it out prematurely would significantly reduce its efficacy.
The strong smell and smoke you experience might be due to the high concentration of Glyoxylic acid in your current formula, which can release formaldehyde or other volatile compounds when heated. By replacing it with KeraStraight™, which is a blend of Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine and Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids, you should experience a gentler process with less odor and smoke.
The crucial step for achieving shine and hydration with KeraStraight™ is the final wash and/or condition after ironing. This step removes any remaining product residue that might be contributing to dullness and allows the treated hair to reveal its full shine and softness. This post-ironing wash is essential for the optimal performance and aesthetic outcome of KeraStraight™.
2. Adding CreamMaker Acid™ in a Cold Process
CreamMaker Acid™ is specifically designed for low pH formulations and is suitable for cold processes. Its description indicates it should be mixed in oil.
Therefore, the ideal time to add CreamMaker Acid™ would be during the oil phase, before combining with the water phase to form your emulsion. Since you are aiming for a cold process, you would disperse CreamMaker Acid™ in your oil-soluble ingredients, then slowly add your water phase while mixing to form the emulsion. This allows for proper emulsification and thickening in your acid-based, cold-process formula.
3. Polymer and Straightening Process
Adding a conditioning polymer like Poly-Conditioner Eco at recommended usage rates (1-5%) should not hinder the straightening process of KeraStraight™. In fact, it can be beneficial. Conditioning polymers are designed to provide softness, smoothness, and improve hair manageability, which complements the straightening effect and enhances the overall hair feel and shine. They primarily act on the hair's surface, providing conditioning benefits without interfering with the chemical straightening mechanism of KeraStraight™.
4. Alternatives to Fatty Alcohols for Cold Process
While fatty alcohols like Cetearyl Alcohol are excellent for building viscosity and creating a creamy texture, they typically require heat to melt and incorporate properly into an emulsion. For a completely cold-process formula, you would need to rely on cold-process emulsifiers and thickeners.
CreamMaker Acid™ itself is a cold-process friendly emulsifier/thickener for acid systems. To achieve a cream-like texture without fatty alcohols, you can:
- Increase CreamMaker Acid™ concentration: You can use CreamMaker Acid™ at a higher percentage (up to 5%) to achieve more viscosity.
- Utilize other cold-process thickeners/gelling agents: Consider adding other cold-process compatible polymers or gums that can build viscosity and provide a cream-like texture without heat. However, ensure compatibility with your acidic pH.
5. Alternatives to Glycerin for Hydration
Glycerin is a highly effective and economical humectant. While it is an excellent choice, alternatives that provide similar or enhanced hydration benefits include:
- Propanediol: A natural, plant-derived humectant and solvent that can also boost preservative efficacy.
- Sodium PCA: A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) component, highly effective at attracting and retaining moisture in the hair.
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5): As mentioned previously, Panthenol is excellent for hydration, elasticity, and shine.
You can use these individually or in combination with glycerin to achieve your desired hydration levels.
6. Blending KeraStraight™ and Glyoxylic Acid for Cost Balance
It is possible to make a blend between KeraStraight™ and Glyoxylic acid to balance cost. However, there are important considerations:
- Efficacy vs. Gentleness: While Glyoxylic acid contributes to straightening, KeraStraight™ offers the added benefit of hair repair due to its keratin amino acids, and is generally considered gentler on the hair. A blend might reduce the repair benefits and potentially increase the risk of the strong smell/smoke you observed, depending on the Glyoxylic acid concentration.
- Formulation Stability: Ensure the blend remains stable and effective at your desired pH. Both ingredients are acidic, but their interaction and the overall stability of the final product should be thoroughly tested.
- Recommended Usage: For optimal results, KeraStraight™ is recommended at 20% concentration. If you blend, you would need to adjust the total active straightening agent concentration to achieve the desired effect while managing the cost.
We recommend starting with the full KeraStraight™ concentration to establish the desired performance, then carefully experimenting with blends if cost reduction is critical, always prioritizing hair health and user experience.
By implementing these suggestions, particularly the correct application protocol for KeraStraight™ and optimizing your formula with CreamMaker Acid™ for texture, you should be able to achieve a superior hair straightening product with the desired cream-like texture, maximum shine, hydration, and hair repair benefits. The products are linked in the Related Products section below.
Related Products Mentioned
Poly-Conditioner Eco
