Improving Hand Cream Formula for Very Dry and Rough Hands

Asked by: plantycoon On: November 29, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have an oil-based hand cream formula (Petrolatum base) and want to add moisturizing ingredients to improve it for very dry and rough hands. If I add water-soluble moisturizers like MOIST72, will I need to change the product form to a cream?

Answer

Improving Hand Cream Formula for Very Dry and Rough Hands

Based on the original formula which is Petrolatum-based and primarily focuses on coating the skin to prevent moisture loss, adding ingredients that directly nourish and regenerate the skin will help address the issue of very dry and rough hands more effectively.

You can improve the original formula by adding these ingredients into the oil phase to be compatible with the existing balm or ointment texture:

  • Shea Butter: A natural fat with very high moisturizing properties. It helps make the skin soft and smooth, reduces dryness, and regenerates damaged skin cells. You can add Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised) or Golden Shea Butter (Virgin, Ghana) into the formula. It needs to be melted in the oil phase with heat before mixing.
  • Ceramides: Essential lipids that are a key component of the skin barrier. Supplementing ceramides helps repair a damaged skin barrier, making the skin stronger, retaining moisture better, and reducing irritation. For an oil-based formula, you can choose ceramides that are dispersible in oil, such as Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder) or Ceracare™ Oil (Clear Oil Ceramide).
  • Bisabolol: An extract from chamomile flowers with properties to reduce skin irritation, inflammation, and soothe dry, cracked, and rough skin effectively. Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile) is oil-soluble, making it suitable for this formula.
  • Calendula Oil: An oil obtained by infusing calendula flowers in a base oil. Calendula Oil (Infused) has properties to help regenerate skin, reduce inflammation, and relieve symptoms of dry, cracked, or rough skin. It can be mixed directly into the oil phase.

Points to Consider:

  • The original formula contains Salicylic Acid, which is a BHA that helps exfoliate the skin. In cases of very dry and rough hands, exfoliation might cause irritation. You should consider the amount of Salicylic Acid used or perhaps reduce/remove it during periods of severe dryness.
  • If you want to add ingredients that are highly water-soluble, such as Hyaluronic Acid or MOIST72 as suggested, you will need to change the product form from a balm/ointment to a cream (Emulsion). This requires a water phase and an emulsifier to combine the water and oil.

Adding the ingredients mentioned above, especially Shea Butter and Ceramides, will significantly enhance the formula's ability to nourish and regenerate very dry and rough skin compared to the original formula which primarily focuses on occlusion.