Improving Lip Gloss Formulation for Gloss, Texture, and Wear
Question
I have a large quantity of finished lip gloss product with the following composition:
- Alkanes C9-C11, Iso: 17%
- Alkanes C10-C13, Iso: 16%
- PEG-12 Dimethicone: 2.5%
- Dodecane: 25%
- Dimethicone: 5%
- Boron Nitride: 3%
- Butylene Glycol: 4%
- Water: 17.5%
- CI...: 4%
- CI...: 4%
- CI...: 2%
Please suggest ingredients and methods to improve the formulation.
Thank you.
Answer
Lip Gloss Formulation Improvement
Based on your lip gloss formulation, here are some suggestions for ingredients and methods to improve the product, focusing on enhancing gloss, texture, and wear:
Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Standard Gloss or Extra Gloss): This ingredient is specifically designed for lip gloss formulations. It helps provide shine, a comfortable feel, and good adherence to the lips, making the gloss last longer. You can incorporate this by mixing it into the oil phase of your formula. Start with a usage rate within the recommended range (typically 1-50%) and adjust based on the desired texture and gloss level. Consider reducing the percentage of Alkanes or Dodecane to make room for this ingredient.
Lip Film HR (Gloss Film Former For Glossy Lip): If you are looking for very high gloss and improved longevity, Lip Film HR is a good option. It acts as a film former. This ingredient needs to be dissolved in the oil phase by heating to around 100-110°C. Use at a rate of 1-20%.
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate: This ester can enhance shine, improve the flexibility of the film on the lips, help prevent cracking, and improve pigment dispersion. It is mixed into the oil phase. Recommended usage is 1-50%, and often 20-40% in lip formulations.
Silicone Gel (High Gloss, Dimethicone Base): Since your formula already contains Dimethicone, this silicone gel can be easily incorporated into the silicone/oil phase. It helps provide high gloss, a thicker texture, and a smooth, non-sticky feel, while also helping to fill in lip lines. It is dispersible in silicone oil and can be used at 1-100%.
Other Options: Ingredients like LipidSoft™ Shine, LipidSoft™ Lux, and Triethylhexyl Trimellitate are also useful esters that can contribute to gloss and improve texture in lip formulations.
General Method of Incorporation:
For most of these oil-soluble or dispersible ingredients, you would typically add them to your oil phase (containing Alkanes, Dodecane, Dimethicone). If using Lip Film HR, the oil phase will need to be heated to dissolve it. Once the oil phase is prepared with the added ingredients, you would combine it with your water phase (containing Water and Butylene Glycol) and the dispersed solid phase (Boron Nitride and colorants) according to your existing manufacturing process, ensuring proper mixing and emulsification/dispersion if applicable.
Remember to make adjustments to the percentages of your existing ingredients, particularly the Alkanes and Dodecane, to accommodate the addition of new ingredients while keeping the total formula at 100%. Start with lower percentages of the new ingredients and conduct small-scale trials to achieve the desired properties.