Improving Pressed Powder Formula for Longevity and Coverage
คำถาม
I am working on a pressed powder formula and am experiencing issues with poor longevity, especially around the nose, and insufficient coverage. I have a powder press and a mixer available. Could you please provide advice on how to improve the formula based on the ingredients listed below?
Current Formula:
- Silk Talc Powder (Silane Coated) - 33.59%
- Silk Sericite Powder (Matte, Silane Coated) - 45.90%
- Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ - 5%
- AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine) - 2%
- MatteSilica™ (Silica ดูดซับความมันผิว) - 1.5%
- Polymethylsilsesquioxane 2microns (Soft-Focus / Matte) - 0.5%
- WhiteMatte3™ (Boron Nitride 3micron) - 2.5%
- Magnesium Stearate - 1%
- Preservative (powder form) - 1%
- Color (Iron Oxides Red, Iron Oxides Yellow, Iron Oxides Black - Ultra-fine, Silane-Coated) - n/a
- Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor) - 2%
- Silicone Film (Long-Wear, Hard, Dimethicone Base) - 2%
- Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor) - 3%
คำตอบ
Subject: Improving Pressed Powder Formula for Longevity and Coverage
Hello,
Thank you for sharing your pressed powder formula and the issues you're experiencing with wear time (especially around the nose) and coverage. Based on the ingredients, here are some suggestions to improve your formula:
To increase coverage:
- Increase Titanium Dioxide (Product ID 236): This is the main ingredient for opacity. Increasing its percentage from 5% to around 8-10% will significantly improve coverage.
- Increase Iron Oxides (Product IDs 1118, 1119, 1120): The total amount of color pigments directly impacts coverage. You can slightly increase the overall percentage of the iron oxide blend while maintaining the ratio needed for your desired shade.
To increase longevity and improve wear around the nose (oil control):
- Increase Silicone Film (Product ID 1911): This ingredient is a film former that helps the powder adhere better to the skin and improves wear time. Increasing it from 2% to 3-5% should make the powder last longer.
- Increase Magnesium Stearate (Product ID 284): This acts as a binder, helping the powder particles stick together and adhere to the skin. Increasing it from 1% to 3-5% will improve the durability of the pressed cake and its adhesion.
- Increase MatteSilica™ (Product ID 518): This ingredient absorbs excess oil. Increasing it from 1.5% to 3-5% will help control shine and prevent the powder from breaking down, especially in oily areas like the nose.
Adjusting Fillers:
Since you are increasing the percentages of the active ingredients, you will need to proportionally decrease the amount of fillers like Silk Talc Powder (Product ID 283) and Silk Sericite Powder (Product ID 372). Their combined percentage is currently very high (~79.5%). Reducing their total percentage will make room for the ingredients that improve coverage and wear.
Mixing and Pressing:
Ensure all dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed before gradually adding the liquid silicones (Dimethicone, Silicone Film, Cyclomethicone) while mixing. The mixture should have a consistent texture suitable for pressing. Using adequate pressure with your powder press is also crucial for creating a firm, durable cake that transfers well.
By making these adjustments, you should be able to create a pressed powder with better coverage and significantly improved longevity, particularly in areas prone to oiliness.
Relevant Product IDs: 283, 372, 236, 330, 518, 1020, 910, 284, 1118, 1119, 1120, 172, 1911, 171.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
Talc Powder (5 Micron, Methicone Coated)
Magnesium Stearate
AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine)
Sericite Powder (6 Micron, Methicone Coated)
MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron)
WhiteMatte3™ (Boron Nitride 3micron)
Iron Oxides Red (Ultra-fine, Silane-Coated)
Iron Oxides Yellow (Ultra-fine, Silane-Coated)