Improving Stability and Reducing Stickiness in Whipped Body Butter
Question
I have tried making a Whipped Body Butter using the formula below. While I like the creaminess and the moisture it provides, it feels slightly sticky after application. I would like to adjust the formula to achieve a smoother, non-greasy feel while maintaining long-lasting hydration.
Additionally, I want to improve the stability of the texture; currently, the whipped consistency is not very stable and feels more like a lotion. What adjustments can I make to achieve a firmer, more stable whipped texture?
Current Formula:
Distilled Water57%Glycerin3%Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)20%Fractionated Coconut Oil10%Olivem 10005%Cetyl Alcohol2%Panthenol (Vitamin B5)1%Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)0.5%Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative)1%Vanilla Fragrance Oil1.5%
Answer
To improve your Whipped Body Butter formula for a less greasy feel, better stability, and a firmer "whipped" texture, I recommend the following adjustments:
1. Reduce Greasiness and Improve Skin Feel
- Replace Fractionated Coconut Oil: While it is a light oil, at 10% it can still contribute to a lingering oily feel when combined with 20% Shea Butter. Replace it with LipidSoft™ Dry II, which is a "dry" emollient that provides a silky, non-greasy finish.
- Add a Mattifying Agent: You can add LipidSoft™ Matte (about 1-2%) to help reduce the shine and oily sensation on the skin immediately after application.
2. Increase Firmness and Stability
- Upgrade the Thickener: Replace Cetyl Alcohol with Behenyl Alcohol and increase the amount to 4-5%. Behenyl Alcohol provides a much firmer structure and a more velvety, matte feel compared to the waxier feel of Cetyl Alcohol. This will help the "whipped" texture stay firm and not turn back into a lotion.
- Add a Stabilizer: Add a small amount of Xanthan Gum (0.2%) to the water phase. This helps hold the emulsion together and prevents the air bubbles you whip into the cream from collapsing or separating over time.
Recommended Revised Formula (100% Total)
Phase A (Water Phase):
- Distilled Water: 52.8%
- Glycerin: 3%
- Xanthan Gum: 0.2%
Phase B (Oil Phase):
- Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 20%
- LipidSoft™ Dry II: 10% (Replaces Coconut Oil)
- Olivem 1000: 5%
- Behenyl Alcohol: 5% (Replaces Cetyl Alcohol)
Phase C (Cool Down Phase - add when below 40°C):
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 1%
- Natural Vitamin E: 0.5%
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative): 1%
- Vanilla Fragrance Oil: 1.5%
Tips for the "Whipped" Texture:
- Heat Phase A and Phase B separately to about 70-75°C.
- Add Phase B into Phase A while stirring.
- Use a hand mixer or stick blender to emulsify.
- As the mixture begins to cool and thicken (around 35-40°C), add Phase C.
- The Whipping Process: Once the cream starts to set, use a whisk or hand mixer to whip air into it. You may need to put the container in a cold water bath (ice bath) while whipping to help it set into a firm, airy "butter" texture. Behenyl Alcohol will ensure that once it sets, it stays firm.
Related Products Mentioned
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
Behenyl Alcohol
LipidSoft™ Matte
LipidSoft™ Dry II (Dicaprylyl Carbonate)