Incorporating Water-Soluble Extracts in Liquid Lipstick

Asked by: dam0meee On: April 18, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can water-soluble extracts be incorporated into liquid lipstick? Can they be added directly, or do they need a carrier like PMMA (Polymethyl Methacrylate) first?

Answer

Incorporating Water-Soluble Extracts in Liquid Lipstick

Adding water-soluble extracts directly into an oil-based or anhydrous liquid lipstick formulation is generally not possible because water-soluble ingredients do not mix well with oil-based systems.

The suggestion to use PMMA, such as SelectSorb™, to dissolve or disperse water-soluble extracts before adding them to the formula is also not the correct approach. SelectSorb™ PMMA is designed to absorb oil and does not absorb water, making it unsuitable for incorporating water-soluble ingredients like Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) or Avena sativa (Oat) Extract (Water Soluble) into a formula.

For liquid lipstick formulations that are emulsions (containing both water and oil phases), water-soluble extracts should be dissolved in the water phase of the formulation before emulsification. This allows the extract to be properly dispersed within the final product.

If your liquid lipstick formula is anhydrous (contains no water), incorporating water-soluble ingredients is challenging and may lead to instability or separation. It is best to use oil-soluble or dispersible ingredients in anhydrous systems.