Serum Formula Analysis and Ingredient Recommendations

Thank you for sharing your serum formula and skin concerns. Based on the active ingredients in your current serum:

• Biosaccharide Gum-1 (Hydro Gel): Provides hydration and soothing benefits.
• BIO-PGA (Gamma polyglutamic acid) (Natto Gum): Offers excellent hydration, potentially better than Hyaluronic Acid, helping skin feel plump.
• Sodium PCA: A component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), contributing to hydration.
• Acetyl Hexapeptide 3 (Argireline): A peptide known for targeting wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement.

Regarding your question about collagen, it is generally true that topical collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin barrier effectively to replenish collagen in deeper layers. While they can provide surface hydration, other active ingredients are more effective for addressing deeper wrinkles and firmness.

Given your skin type (combination T-zone) and concerns (wrinkles around smile lines and under eyes, uneven skin tone, acne marks), here are some recommended active ingredients to consider adding or substituting in your DIY serum:

For Wrinkles and Firmness:

Beyond Acetyl Hexapeptide 3 already in your serum, consider other peptides that stimulate collagen production or improve skin structure:

• Pep®-Synthe6 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38): A peptide designed to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
• Pep®-PP4 (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4): Shown in studies to reduce wrinkles, improve elasticity, and support the skin barrier.
• Pep®-Max12 (12 Peptides Mixture): Contains a blend of peptides, including Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), offering comprehensive benefits for wrinkles, elasticity, and even some brightening.

Alternatively, Vitamin A derivatives are highly effective for wrinkles:

• Perfect-A Nano™ (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Encapsulation): A stable and less irritating form of Vitamin A compared to traditional Retinol, effective for anti-aging and reducing wrinkles.
• Bakuchiol-Eco™: A natural alternative to Retinol, offering similar anti-aging benefits with potentially less irritation. It also helps with oil control and has antioxidant properties.

For Uneven Skin Tone and Acne Marks:

To address dark spots and achieve a more even complexion:

• Vitamin C: A powerful antioxidant that helps brighten skin, fade dark spots, and stimulate collagen. Consider stable forms like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (water-soluble) or Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) (oil-soluble).
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Excellent for reducing redness and dark spots, improving skin barrier function, and helping to control oiliness in the T-zone. It also offers anti-aging benefits.
• Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): Specifically targets melanin production to reduce dark spots, freckles, and uneven skin tone.

For Combination Skin (T-zone Oiliness):

• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): As mentioned, Niacinamide is beneficial for regulating sebum production, making it suitable for your T-zone.

Summary of Recommendations:

To create a comprehensive serum targeting your concerns, you could consider a combination of:

1. Peptides (e.g., Pep®-Max12 or a mix of Pep®-Synthe6 and Pep®-PP4) for wrinkles and firmness.
2. Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) for barrier support, oil control, and fading spots/redness.
3. Vitamin C (e.g., Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Perfect-C™) for antioxidant protection, collagen stimulation, and brightening.
4. Alpha Arbutin for enhanced dark spot reduction.

Alternatively, you could build a formula around a Retinoid (Perfect-A Nano™) or Bakuchiol-Eco™ for strong anti-aging and spot-fading effects, potentially combined with Niacinamide and hydration boosters like Biosaccharide Gum-1 and BIO-PGA from your original serum.

When formulating, pay attention to the solubility (water vs. oil) and recommended pH range for each ingredient, as noted in their descriptions, to ensure stability and efficacy. Start with recommended usage rates and always patch test.

We hope this analysis and these recommendations help you in creating your personalized serum!