Ingredient Recommendations for Matte, High-Coverage Cushion Foundation with Subtle Glow
Question
I am developing a cushion foundation formulation that aims for a matte finish with high coverage and a smooth texture, yet still provides a subtle dewy glow (ฉ่ำโกล). The product must also be long-lasting and non-chalky (ไม่วอก).
Could you recommend suitable pigments, functional powders, and Titanium Dioxide options for this formula? Specifically, which types of colorants, powders, and Titanium Dioxide would ensure:
- Fine, smooth texture and application
- Excellent adherence and long-wear
- Non-chalky appearance (non-waxy/white cast)
Answer
Creating a cushion foundation that is matte, high-coverage, and long-lasting, yet still provides a subtle dewy glow, requires a careful selection of treated pigments and functional powders.
Here are the recommendations for pigments, powders, and Titanium Dioxide to achieve your desired effect:
1. Titanium Dioxide (Coverage & Non-Chalky)
To ensure high coverage, smooth application, and a non-chalky (non-waxy) finish, it is crucial to use treated, fine-particle Titanium Dioxide. The treatment (coating) helps the pigment disperse evenly in the oil phase of the cushion, preventing aggregation and a white cast.
- Recommendation: Use Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ (Dimethicone/Silica Treated) (ID: 236). Its small particle size (200nm) and surface treatment ensure excellent dispersion, high coverage, and a smooth, non-chalky feel.
2. Color Pigments (Smoothness & Adherence)
For the Iron Oxides (Yellow, Red, Black) used to create the skin tone, choose coated versions for superior dispersion, color stability, and better adherence to the skin, which contributes to long-wear.
- Recommendation: Use the coated versions of Iron Oxides:
- Iron Oxides Yellow (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) (ID: 31475)
- Iron Oxides Red (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) (ID: 31473)
- Iron Oxides Black (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) (ID: 31885)
3. Functional Powders (Matte, Smooth, Long-Wear)
To achieve a matte, smooth, and long-lasting finish, you need a combination of powders for oil control and texture enhancement.
- For Smoothness and Matte Finish: Use a coated Sericite powder, which offers a soft, silky feel and excellent pressability for cushion formulas.
- Recommendation: Sericite Powder (CompactPro™) (Matte, Dimethicone Coated) (ID: 33905).
- For Oil Control and Longevity: Incorporate a fine-particle Silica to absorb excess oil and improve the longevity of the makeup.
- Recommendation: MatteSilica 3™ (3 Micron) (ID: 10043). Its very fine particle size provides effective oil control without feeling heavy.
- To Achieve the "Dewy/Glowy" Effect: Since the base is matte, the glow must come from an optical effect rather than oiliness. You can achieve this by incorporating a small amount of a soft-focus powder (like a specialized Mica or Boron Nitride, not listed here) or by ensuring the liquid phase of your cushion contains high-refractive index, non-greasy emollients (e.g., specific silicones) that reflect light subtly without adding shine.
By combining these treated pigments and functional powders, you can formulate a cushion that delivers high coverage, a smooth matte finish, and excellent longevity, while the liquid phase can be adjusted to provide the desired subtle glow.
Related Products Mentioned