Is Ultramarine Blue (CI 77007) a Lake Pigment and Can It Be Used in Lipsticks?
Question
Ultramarine Blue powder, EasyMix™ type, for makeup products such as Lip stick, Lip gloss.
Is this CI 77007 Ultramarine Blue blue pigment not a "lake" pigment? And can it be used in lipsticks?
Answer
Ultramarine Blue (CI 77007) is an inorganic pigment, not a "Lake" pigment. Here are the details regarding its use in lip products and its technical properties:
1. Is it a Lake pigment?
No, Ultramarine Blue is a synthetic mineral pigment (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate). Unlike "Lake" pigments, which are produced by precipitating organic dyes onto an insoluble substrate (like alumina), Ultramarine Blue is an inorganic mineral-type pigment.
2. Can it be used in Lipsticks and Lip Glosses?
The answer depends on the regulatory region:
- ASEAN (including Thailand) and European Union (EU): Permitted. According to the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive and EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, CI 77007 is allowed in all cosmetic products, including those intended for use on the lips.
- United States (FDA): Not Permitted. The US FDA only approves Ultramarines for "externally applied" cosmetics, which specifically excludes products used on the lips.
If you are manufacturing for the Thai or European market, you can use it in lip products.
3. Technical Considerations for Lip Products
- Acid Sensitivity: Ultramarine Blue is sensitive to acidic environments. In the presence of acids, it can lose its color or release a sulfur-like odor (hydrogen sulfide).
- Formulation Tip: It is best used in anhydrous (water-free) systems like traditional lipsticks or lip glosses. Avoid using it with acidic ingredients, such as certain fruit-based flavors, AHAs/BHAs, or acidic preservatives.
- EasyMix™ Advantage: The Ultramarine Blue EasyMix™ version is specifically designed for makeup. It is coated with Methicone, which makes the powder softer, smoother, and much easier to disperse in oil or silicone without requiring heavy machinery. It also improves skin adhesion and water resistance.
Recommended Products
- Ultramarine Blue EasyMix™: Ideal for lipsticks and glosses due to its easy dispersion and smooth texture.
- Ultramarine Blue: The standard pigment powder for general cosmetic use.
Relevant References
Sources supporting the key technical claims in this answer