Lightweight Serum Texture and Thickeners

Asked by: pam_ananya On: September 18, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

I need recommendations for thickeners to create a lightweight serum texture that is not too thick, not sticky, and absorbs quickly.

If the formula uses approximately 65% water and 1% [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/216-xanthan-gum-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AA.html:sgmybivn]Xanthan Gum[/url:sgmybivn], is 1% sufficient? Do I need to increase the amount?

Or do I need to add other ingredients as well? Thank you.

Answer

Lightweight Serum Thickeners

To create a lightweight, non-sticky, fast-absorbing serum with approximately 65% water, you have several excellent options for gelling agents and thickeners.

Regarding your question about Xanthan Gum, using 1% is a common starting point for many gel and serum formulations. For a lightweight texture with 65% water, 1% might be sufficient, but you can adjust the concentration within the recommended range of 0.1-2% to achieve your desired viscosity. Different types of Xanthan Gum, such as the "clear gel type, smooth texture," can offer slightly different feels.

For a truly lightweight, non-sticky, and fast-absorbing serum, consider these alternatives or additions:

  • Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye): This base is specifically designed to create light, soft, smooth, and quickly absorbed serums. It works well with high water content (30-90%) and is ideal for achieving the texture you described.
  • AnyGel™: This water gelling agent provides a non-greasy texture that feels instantly absorbed and dries quickly on the skin. It's also resistant to acids, alkalis, and electrolytes, making it quite versatile. It is typically used at 1-2.5%.
  • Sepimax Zen: This is a highly tolerant thickener that creates a gel texture in the water phase. It's resistant to salt and pH variations and is used at 0.5-2%. It can help create a stable gel.
  • Light Cream Maker™: While also an emulsifier, it can be used as a thickener in water-based formulas. It helps create a light, smooth, non-gooey texture that absorbs easily. Recommended usage is 0.5-3%.

You might also consider adding ingredients for enhanced skin feel:

  • Dimethicone (Very Light/5, Low-Odor): If your formula includes an oil or silicone phase, this can contribute a soft, smooth, non-sticky feel.
  • Pullulan (Low Viscosity): At lower concentrations, it acts as a thickener and can contribute to a lightweight feel.

Experimenting with different thickeners and concentrations is key to finding the perfect lightweight, non-sticky serum texture for your formula.