Lip Balm Formulation: Adding Fragrance, Water-Soluble Ingredients, Emulsifiers, and Preservatives

Asked by: nuchsmile On: August 06, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How to formulate a lip balm using beeswax, natural oils, and butters? Specifically, how do I add fragrance (Flavor type), and are emulsifiers and preservatives necessary? What is the process if I want to include water-soluble ingredients like D-Panthenol Care?

Answer

Lip Balm Formulation Guidance

Based on your current lip balm formula using beeswax, natural oils, and butters, and your questions about adding fragrance, emulsifiers, and preservatives:

Adding Fragrance

If you are using a "Flavor" type fragrance specifically designed for lip products, you can typically add it directly to your melted oil and butter phase. An emulsifier is not needed for this purpose in an anhydrous (water-free) formula.

Emulsifier and Preservative

  • Emulsifier: An emulsifier is used to mix oil and water phases together. Since your current lip balm formula is anhydrous (contains no water, only oils, butters, and wax), you do not need an emulsifier. However, if you wish to add water-soluble ingredients like D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5), you would need an emulsifier to incorporate the water phase into your oil/wax base. Products like Water Balm™ or Emulsifying Beeswax can help bind water in oil/wax formulations.
  • Preservative: An anhydrous lip balm generally does not require a preservative because microbial growth typically needs water. However, if you add water or water-soluble ingredients (like D-Panthenol Care), a preservative becomes necessary to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. A broad-spectrum preservative like Mild Preserved™ COS is suitable for formulas containing a water phase.

Method

  • Basic Lip Balm (Anhydrous):

    1. Weigh your beeswax (such as Natural White Beeswax or Yellow Beeswax), natural oils (like NaturalProfile™ Grape Seed Oil), and butters.
    2. Gently heat the ingredients in a double boiler until fully melted and combined.
    3. Remove from heat and stir in your "Flavor" type fragrance.
    4. Pour the mixture into your lip balm containers.
    5. Allow to cool and solidify completely at room temperature.
  • Lip Balm with Water-Soluble Ingredients (Requires Emulsifier and Preservative):
    If you decide to add water-soluble ingredients using a product like Water Balm™, the method will involve heating the oil/wax phase (including Water Balm™) and the water phase (water, water-soluble ingredients like D-Panthenol Care, preservative like Mild Preserved™ COS) separately, then carefully combining them while hot and stirring until cool. Please refer to the specific instructions and example formulas provided in the product description for Water Balm™ for detailed guidance on incorporating a water phase.