Lip Balm Formulation Issues: Hard Texture and Honey Separation

Question

I made a lip balm using beeswax, butters, oils, and honey. The resulting texture is hard, and the honey separates from the base. How can I fix this or what alternative formulations can I use to create a stable lip balm with honey?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Regarding your lip balm formulation issue:

The problem you encountered with the hard texture and honey separation is because honey is water-soluble, while beeswax, butters, and oils are oil-soluble. These two types of ingredients do not mix well without an emulsifier to bind them together.

The staff recommended two approaches to address this:

1. All-Oil Formula using Oil Blender™
This approach creates a smooth, homogenous oil-based balm by using Oil Blender™ to help combine the various oil-soluble ingredients. This formula does not include honey or any water-based ingredients.

Oil Blender™: 4%
Beeswax: 20%
Shea Butter: 20%
Cocoa Butter: 20%
Fractionated Coconut Oil: 20%
Vaseline: 16%

2. Water-in-Oil Formula using Water Balm™
This approach allows for the inclusion of a small amount of water-based ingredients, like honey, by using Water Balm™ as a water-in-oil emulsifier. The water phase (honey) should not exceed 10% of the total formula to prevent separation. The staff suggested trying 5% honey.

Water Balm™: 5%
Beeswax: 20%
Shea Butter: 25%
Cocoa Butter: 20%
Fractionated Coconut Oil: 25%
Honey: 5% (Water phase)

Preservative Recommendation
For any formula containing a water phase (like the second formula with honey), it is crucial to add a preservative to prevent microbial growth. The staff recommended Mild Preserved Eco for this purpose.

Please note that these formulas are provided as examples. You may need to adjust the ratios slightly based on your desired texture and the specific properties of the ingredients you are using.