Lip tint formulation: Reducing oiliness and improving color longevity
Question
I am trying to formulate a lip tint using the following ingredients:
- Mineral Oil
- Squalene
- Oil Thick™
- Pigment colors (D&C Red No.7 Lake, Iron Oxides Black)
However, the formula feels too oily and the color does not adhere well (low longevity). What could be the reason for this, and how can I adjust the formula to reduce oiliness and improve color longevity?
Answer
Understanding Your Lip Tint Issue
You're right to suspect that the high oil content in your initial lip tint formula was the main reason the color didn't adhere well and felt oily. Oil-based formulas can feel comfortable, but without the right components, pigments can sit on the surface and transfer easily.
- Mineral Oil and Squalene are emollients that provide slip and shine, which is great for texture, but they don't inherently help pigments stick to the skin for long periods.
- The Pigment colors you used, D&C Red No.7 Lake and Iron Oxides Black, are oil-dispersible, meaning they mix well into the oil base, but they need something to bind them to the lip surface.
How to Improve Longevity and Feel
The staff's recommendation to add Oil Film (Long-Wear) and incorporate Isododecane is key to solving this problem.
- Oil Film (Long-Wear) (specifically, the type based on Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene) is a film-forming polymer. When the volatile components in the formula evaporate, this polymer creates a thin, durable film on the lips. This film acts like a binder, holding the pigments in place and significantly improving wear time and transfer resistance. It helps the color "stick".
- Isododecane is a lightweight, volatile hydrocarbon. It evaporates quickly after application, helping the formula dry down and reducing the oily feel. It also acts as an excellent solvent and carrier for film-forming polymers like Oil Film (Long-Wear), ensuring they spread evenly and form a continuous film. Replacing some of the heavier mineral oil with Isododecane makes the formula feel much lighter and less greasy.
Recommended Adjustment
Following the staff's suggested adjustment:
- Reduce Mineral Oil to around 10%.
- Keep Squalene at 1-5%.
- Keep Oil Thick™ at 1-3% (adjust based on desired thickness).
- Add Oil Film (Long-Wear) at 5-10% (can go up to 20% for maximum longevity).
- Use Isododecane as the remaining percentage to reach 100%.
- Add your Pigment colors as needed for desired intensity.
This revised formula balances emollients for comfort with a film-former for adhesion and a volatile solvent for a lighter feel and faster dry-down, addressing the issues you encountered with the original formula.
Related Products Mentioned
Isododecane (Germany)
D&C Red No.7 Lake