Lipstick Formula Issues: Breakage, Color Intensity, and Heat Stability
Question
I am having issues with my lipstick formula. It breaks easily, especially in hot weather, and the color intensity is not strong enough. How can I revise my formula and mixing procedure to fix these problems? I have tried a formula similar to the revised one provided:
Revised Lipstick Formula
- Jojoba Oil: 17%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: 17%
- Squalene: 10%
- Isododecane: 10%
- Tribehenin: 5%
- Candelilla Wax: 5%
- Carnauba Wax: 3%
- Microcrystalline Wax: 5%
- Polyethylene Wax (Soft): 10%
- LipidSoft™ Disperse: 10%
- Lake color EasyMix: 8%
Total: 100%
What is the recommended mixing procedure for this formula to ensure good color dispersion and stick stability?
Answer
Revised Lipstick Formula
- Jojoba Oil: 17%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: 17%
- Squalene: 10%
- Isododecane: 10%
- Tribehenin: 5%
- Candelilla Wax: 5%
- Carnauba Wax: 3%
- Microcrystalline Wax: 5%
- Polyethylene Wax (Soft): 10%
- LipidSoft™ Disperse: 10%
- Lake color EasyMix: 8%
Total: 100%
Explanation of Changes:
- Increased Color: The percentage of Lake color is increased to 8% for better intensity, as suggested by the staff. Using a pre-dispersed "EasyMix" color can also help.
- LipidSoft™ Disperse: Added at 10% to significantly improve the dispersion of the Lake color pigment in the oil phase, leading to a more intense and uniform color pay-off.
- Adjusted Wax Blend: The total wax content is increased to 28% (Tribehenin, Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Polyethylene Wax). This higher percentage provides more structure and hardness to the stick.
- Polyethylene Wax (Soft): Included at 10% as recommended by staff. This synthetic wax contributes to better color pay-off and can improve the flexibility and stability of the stick, reducing breakage.
- Microcrystalline Wax: Increased to 5%. This wax is excellent at binding oils and pigments, contributing to a smooth texture and preventing "sweating" (oil separation), further improving stick stability.
- Adjusted Oil/Squalene Content: The percentages of Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Squalene, and Isododecane are reduced to balance the increased wax content while still providing a smooth application.
Revised Mixing Instructions
- Weigh all waxes (Tribehenin, Candelilla Wax, Carnauba Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Polyethylene Wax) and liquid oils/esters (Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Squalene, Isododecane, LipidSoft™ Disperse) into a beaker.
- Gently heat the mixture in a double boiler until all solid ingredients are completely melted and the mixture is clear and uniform. Ensure the temperature is sufficient to fully melt all waxes (refer to the melting points of the specific waxes used, typically around 70-85°C).
- Remove the beaker from the heat.
- Add the Lake color EasyMix to the melted oil/wax mixture.
- Crucially, stir the mixture thoroughly and vigorously to ensure the color pigment is fully dispersed. Using a small laboratory homogenizer or a high-shear mixer for a few minutes at this stage is highly recommended for optimal color dispersion and a smooth, lump-free product. If you don't have specialized equipment, stir continuously and vigorously by hand, ensuring no streaks of color remain.
- Carefully pour the well-mixed, colored liquid into your lipstick molds or tubes before it begins to solidify. Work relatively quickly as the mixture cools.
- Allow the lipsticks to cool and solidify completely at room temperature or in a refrigerator before unmolding or capping. Proper cooling is essential for the stick to set correctly and prevent breakage.
By increasing the color concentration, using a dispersing agent, and adjusting the wax blend to include more structure-providing waxes like Polyethylene Wax and Microcrystalline Wax, you should achieve a more intense color pay-off and a more stable lipstick that is less likely to break.
Regarding your question about lipstick breaking and hot weather, yes, hot weather significantly contributes to lipstick softening and breaking. The revised formula with a higher total wax content and the inclusion of waxes with higher melting points and better structural properties is designed to be more resistant to heat and breakage.
Related Products Mentioned
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Isododecane (Germany)
Carnauba Wax (Flake, Melting 80C)
Candelilla Wax (Refined, Melting 70C)
Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss)
FD&C Yellow No.5 Lake EasyMix™
FD&C Red No.40 Lake EasyMix™
Tribehenin (Soft Wax, USA)
FD&C Yellow No.6 Lake EasyMix™