Loose Powder Formulation Review and Adjustment

Asked by: tor1903 On: March 11, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Review a loose powder formulation aiming for a lightweight, smooth, oil-controlling, natural-coverage powder without strong color. The formula is:

  1. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite 41%
  2. Magnesium Stearate 7%
  3. Titanium Dioxide SuperCoverage Pigment 25%
  4. RiceSorb 15%
  5. BB Micro Silk 10%
  6. Pearl Purple Mica (A)

Is this formula mixable? Is the Titanium Dioxide percentage too high and will it cause a white cast? Which ingredients should be adjusted?

Answer

Loose Powder Formulation Review

Okay, I have reviewed your loose powder formulation and the properties of the ingredients you listed based on the product descriptions.

Here is an analysis of your formula and suggestions for adjustment to achieve a lightweight, smooth, oil-controlling powder with natural coverage, avoiding a strong white cast.

Analysis of Your Formula:

Your formula includes ingredients that contribute to the desired properties:

  • Synthetic Fluorphlogopite: This synthetic mica provides brightness, smoothness, and helps with oil absorption and adhesion. At 41%, it's a significant portion contributing to the texture and luminosity.
  • Magnesium Stearate: This is a standard ingredient in powder formulations to improve adhesion to the skin. Your percentage (7%) is within the typical recommended range.
  • Titanium Dioxide SuperCoverage Pigment: This ingredient provides white color and coverage. The "Super-Coverage" type is designed for maximum opacity. At 25%, this is a very high percentage for a loose powder aiming for a natural look without emphasizing color. This is the most likely cause of a potential white cast.
  • RiceSorb: This rice starch is excellent for absorbing oil from the skin, which aligns with your goal for oil control. Your percentage (15%) is within the recommended range for makeup powders.
  • BB Micro Silk: This spherical powder provides a soft-focus effect, helping to blur the appearance of wrinkles and pores, and contributes to a smooth, silky feel. Your percentage (10%) is at the higher end of the recommended range, which will enhance the texture and soft focus.
  • Purple Mica (Size A): This adds a subtle pearlescent effect ("white pearl with purple shimmer") to help the skin look brighter. The percentage was not specified, but it typically would be used at a lower percentage (e.g., 1-5%) for a subtle effect.

Addressing Your Concern about Titanium Dioxide:

You are correct that 25% of the Super-Coverage Titanium Dioxide pigment is quite high and will likely result in a noticeable white cast, making the face look too white or "waxy," especially if you are not aiming for strong coverage or a very pale look. To achieve a more natural finish, the amount of this high-coverage pigment should be reduced.

Proposed Adjustments:

To reduce the white cast while maintaining oil control, smoothness, and natural coverage, I recommend reducing the percentage of Titanium Dioxide and slightly increasing other powders that contribute to texture, oil absorption, and soft focus. Assuming your total formula is 100% (including a small amount of Purple Mica), here is a suggested adjustment:

  • Reduce Titanium Dioxide: Lower the Titanium Dioxide SuperCoverage Pigment from 25% to around 10-15%. Let's aim for 12% in this example.
  • Increase RiceSorb: Slightly increase RiceSorb to enhance oil absorption.
  • Increase BB Micro Silk and/or Synthetic Fluorphlogopite: Increase one or both of these to maintain the desired smooth, lightweight feel and soft-focus effect as you reduce the total percentage of the other powders.

Here is a revised formula based on these suggestions (assuming the Purple Mica was originally around 2%):

  1. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite: 45%
  2. Magnesium Stearate: 7%
  3. Titanium Dioxide SuperCoverage Pigment: 12%
  4. RiceSorb: 20%
  5. BB Micro Silk: 14%
  6. Purple Mica (Size A): 2%
    (Total: 100%)

This adjusted formula significantly reduces the primary whitening pigment (Titanium Dioxide) while increasing the percentages of powders that provide oil control (RiceSorb), smoothness, and soft focus (BB Micro Silk, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite). This should help achieve a more natural look with less risk of a white cast, while still providing oil control and a pleasant texture.

You may need to experiment with the exact percentages based on your desired level of coverage and finish. Starting with a lower percentage of Titanium Dioxide and adjusting from there is a good approach.