Lotion/Cream Formulation: Mixing, Heat Sensitivity, pH, and Body Lotion Customization
Question
Regarding a hot process cream/lotion formula, I have the following questions:
- For the mixing step using heat, does "ปั่น" (mixing) mean simple stirring with a glass rod, or is a mechanical mixer required?
- Given that Sym-White works optimally at pH 4-5, what would be the approximate pH of this formula?
- Certain ingredients have warnings about heat in their "How to Mix" instructions. Do I need to adjust the step for adding these ingredients, and if so, how? The ingredients are:
- GlucoBright: Mix in water phase, can tolerate heat but not for long.
- Ume Extract: Avoid heat above 40°C, add in the final step when cooled.
- Silybum Marianum Extract: Avoid heat above 40°C, add in the final step when cooled.
- Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid: Mix in oil phase, avoid heat.
Additionally, I would like to request a modified body lotion formula. My body skin is dry, rough, sometimes itchy and peeling (especially on the legs), and slightly darkened from sun exposure. I would like to remove Ume Extract and Repair Activator from the formula due to their cost. Could you please provide a suitable formula and mixing procedure?
Answer
Okay, I can help clarify your questions about the face formula mixing and provide a modified formula for your body lotion.
Here are the answers to your questions about the face formula:
Regarding "ปั่น" (Mixing): When making emulsions, especially using the hot process method with ingredients like Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-25, and Behentrimonium Chloride, "ปั่น" refers to using a mechanical mixer. Simple stirring with a glass rod is usually not enough to create a stable and smooth emulsion. A mechanical mixer is needed to ensure the oil and water phases are thoroughly combined and emulsified, which helps prevent the formula from separating over time and gives it the desired texture.
Regarding the pH of the Face Formula: As the staff mentioned, predicting the exact pH of a complex formula is difficult without measuring it. The estimated range of 5-7 is an approximation. To ensure Sym-White works optimally (pH 4-5), you would need to measure the pH of the final cooled product using a pH meter and adjust it if necessary using a suitable acidic ingredient like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution.
Regarding Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: You are correct to be concerned about the heat sensitivity of certain ingredients. Based on the product descriptions:
- GlucoBright can tolerate heat but should not be heated for a long time. Keeping it in Phase A and heating briefly for the emulsification process is acceptable.
- Ume Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, and Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid are sensitive to temperatures above 40°C. They should be added in the final phase (Phase C) when the emulsion has cooled down to below 40°C to maintain their efficacy.
Therefore, the mixing procedure for the face formula should be adjusted to add Ume Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, and Phyto Glycycyrrhetinic Acid along with the other Phase C ingredients when the temperature is below 40°C.
Now, here is a proposed formula for your body lotion, modified to exclude Ume Extract and Repair Activator, while aiming for a light, smooth, moisturizing texture that addresses dryness, roughness, itching, peeling, and slight darkening:
สูตรสำหรับผิวกาย (Body Lotion Formula)
This formula uses a hot process method to achieve a light, easy-to-spread lotion texture similar to CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM, while providing high moisturization and addressing your skin concerns.
Phase A (Water Phase - Heat Tolerant)
- Water (Purified Water) Adjust to 60%
- Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
- GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%
- WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51) 2%
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 0.5%
- MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) 5%
Phase B (Oil Phase - Heat Tolerant)
- Squalane (Olive) 10%
- Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5%
- Ceteareth-25 2.5%
- Behentrimonium Chloride 2.5%
- Milk Lotion Maker 3%
Phase C (Add below 40°C)
- Mild Preserved Eco (Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol) 1%
- Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) 0.5%
- Silybum Marianum Extract 2%
- Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid (Glycyrrhetinic acid) 2%
- MOIST72 (Saccharide Isomerate) 3.5%
- Coenzyme Q10 Extra 1%
- Fragrance 1%
Total: 100%
- (Note: The Water percentage is calculated to make the total 100% after including all other ingredients.)*
ขั้นตอนการผสม (Mixing Procedure):
- Combine ingredients in Phase A in a heat-resistant container. Heat to approximately 70-75°C.
- Combine ingredients in Phase B in a separate heat-resistant container. Heat to approximately 70-75°C until all solids are melted and the phase is uniform.
- Once both phases are at a similar temperature (70-75°C), slowly add Phase B into Phase A while continuously mixing with a mechanical mixer. Maintain mixing until a uniform emulsion is formed.
- Turn off the heat and continue mixing while the emulsion cools.
- When the temperature drops below 40°C, add the ingredients from Phase C one by one, ensuring each is fully incorporated before adding the next.
- Continue mixing until the lotion is completely cooled and smooth.
This formula incorporates ingredients for intense moisturization (Squalane, WaterLock, MOIST24, MOIST72), skin barrier support, soothing properties (Licorice Extract, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Silybum Marianum Extract), and brightening (Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Sym-White) to address your body skin concerns.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Squalane (Olive)
MOIST72™
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Coenzyme Q10 Extra
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Milk Lotion Maker™
MOIST24
Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC)
Ceteareth-25