Lotion Formulation Assistance
Question
I am planning to make a lotion using the following ingredients: Purified Water, Glycerin, Satin Cream Maker, Propylene Glycol, GABA, Pure-Oryzanol™, and Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative). Are there any ingredients that need changing or adding? What are the typical usage percentages for each ingredient? Which ingredients need to be mixed in the oil phase?
Answer
Lotion Formulation Guidance
Based on the ingredients you provided for making lotion:
- Purified Water
- Glycerin
- Satin Cream Maker
- Propylene Glycol
- GABA
- Pure-Oryzanol™
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative)
You have the water phase ingredients (Purified Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, GABA), your emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker), an oil-soluble active (Pure-Oryzanol™), and a preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™).
Missing Ingredient Category: Oil Phase
The most important category missing from your list is the main oil phase. A lotion is an emulsion of water and oil. You need to add oils, butters, or fatty alcohols to provide the emolliency, skin feel, and stability of the oil phase.
Recommendation: Add one or more ingredients from the oil phase category, such as:
- Carrier oils (e.g., Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Sunflower Oil)
- Butters (e.g., Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter)
- Fatty alcohols (e.g., Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol)
- Esters (e.g., Isopropyl Myristate)
Adding an oil phase is essential to create a stable emulsion and a functional lotion texture.
Typical Usage Proportions
It's important to note that these are general ranges and can vary based on the specific ingredients and desired lotion consistency. Always refer to the supplier's recommended usage rate for each ingredient.
- Water Phase (Purified Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, GABA): Typically 70-85% of the formula.
- Purified Water: The largest component, usually 60-80%.
- Glycerin: 2-10%.
- Propylene Glycol: 1-20%.
- GABA: 0.1-3% (note potential tingling above 0.5%).
- Oil Phase (Added Oils/Butters, Pure-Oryzanol™): Typically 10-25% of the formula.
- Added Oils/Butters: This will be the main part of your oil phase.
- Pure-Oryzanol™: 0.1-1.0%.
- Emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker): 0.1-3.0%. The amount depends on the oil phase percentage and desired thickness.
- Preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™): 0.5-2.0%.
Which Ingredients Mix with Oil?
Ingredients that are oil-soluble or are part of the oil phase for emulsification should be mixed together and often heated in a separate container from the water phase.
From your list and suggested additions:
- Pure-Oryzanol™: This is oil-soluble and should be added to your oil phase.
- Satin Cream Maker: Although its description says to add to the water phase first, it works with the oil phase to create the emulsion. You would typically add this to the water phase before combining the water and oil phases.
- Added Oils/Butters/Fatty Alcohols/Esters: These form the bulk of your oil phase and are mixed together.
The water-soluble ingredients (Purified Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, GABA) are mixed in the water phase. The preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™) is usually added during the cool-down phase after the emulsion has formed, as it can be sensitive to high heat.
General Lotion Making Steps:
- Prepare Water Phase: Combine Purified Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, and Satin Cream Maker in a heat-resistant container. Heat gently if required by the emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker description says heat-free, but heating the water phase is common practice in emulsion making).
- Prepare Oil Phase: Combine your chosen oils/butters/fatty alcohols/esters and Pure-Oryzanol™ in a separate heat-resistant container. Heat this phase to the recommended temperature (often similar to the water phase, around 70-75°C) to melt solid ingredients and help with emulsification.
- Emulsify: Slowly pour the oil phase into the water phase while mixing continuously and vigorously with a whisk or homogenizer. Mix until an emulsion forms and the mixture starts to thicken.
- Cool Down: Continue mixing as the lotion cools.
- Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the temperature drops below 40°C, add GABA and Mild Preserved Eco™.
- Final Mix: Mix thoroughly until the lotion is completely cooled and has reached its final consistency.
Related Products Mentioned
Propylene Glycol (USP)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Satin Cream Maker™
GABA Gamma aminobutyric acid (Synthetic)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)