Lotion Formulation with Niacinamide and Ceramide, Addressing Vitamin C Incompatibility
Question
I would like a lotion formulation that includes the following ingredients:
Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide)Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C)Natto GumNatural Moisturizing Amino AcidsAlpha ArbutinCeracare™ CholesterolCeracare™ Liposome-3Ceracare™ NP50
I understand there might be an incompatibility between Safe-B3™ and Ascorbyl Glucoside. Could you please provide a stable lotion formulation that incorporates these ingredients, addressing the incompatibility issue, and focusing on skin brightening, barrier repair, and intense moisturization?
Answer
We can certainly provide a detailed lotion formulation using most of the ingredients you requested. However, it is crucial to note an incompatibility between Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) and Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C). The stability of Ascorbyl Glucoside is negatively affected by the presence of Niacinamide. Therefore, we recommend choosing one or the other for optimal product efficacy and stability.
Below is a lotion formulation that includes Safe-B3™ and the other requested ingredients, excluding Ascorbyl Glucoside. This formulation focuses on skin brightening, barrier repair, and intense moisturization.
Lotion Formulation (with Safe-B3™)
Phase A (Water Phase)
- Water: q.s. to 100%
- Glycerin: 5.0%
- Natto Gum: 5.0%
- Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: 3.0%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5.0%
- Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): 2.0%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
- Preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol): 1.0%
Phase B (Oil Phase)
- Light Emollient Oil (e.g., Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride): 5.0%
- Emulsifier (e.g., Glyceryl Stearate SE): 3.0%
- Cetyl Alcohol: 2.0%
- Stearic Acid: 1.0%
Phase C (Cool Down Phase - Add below 40°C)
- Ceracare™ Cholesterol (Water Dispersible Cholesterol): 3.0%
- Ceracare™ Liposome-3 (Liposome Ceramide Complex, 3 Types): 1.0%
- Ceracare™ NP50 (Water/Oil Dispersible Ceramide NP): 0.2%
- Fragrance: 0.1-0.3% (Optional)
- pH Adjuster (e.g., Lactic Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution): q.s. to pH 5.5-6.5
Mixing Instructions:
- Prepare Phase A: Heat water to 75-80°C. Add Glycerin and Disodium EDTA. Once dissolved, add Natto Gum and stir until fully hydrated. Then, add Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Safe-B3™, and Alpha Arbutin. Stir until all are dissolved. Maintain temperature.
- Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, combine all Phase B ingredients and heat to 75-80°C until fully melted and uniform.
- Emulsification: Slowly add Phase B to Phase A with continuous stirring (a homogenizer is recommended for the best emulsion). Continue stirring for 15-20 minutes at 75-80°C.
- Cool Down: Begin cooling the emulsion while continuing to stir.
- Add Phase C: When the emulsion cools to below 40°C, add Ceracare™ Cholesterol, Ceracare™ Liposome-3, Ceracare™ NP50, and the Preservative. Stir well until uniformly dispersed.
- Adjust pH: Check the pH and adjust to a range of 5.5-6.5 using Lactic Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution as needed. Add fragrance if desired. Continue stirring until the lotion is completely cool.
Ingredient Benefits in this Formulation:
- Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): Offers multiple benefits including reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and redness, while strengthening the skin barrier and controlling oiliness.
- Natto Gum: Provides superior moisturization, even more than hyaluronic acid, and contributes to mild skin brightening.
- Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: Mimics the skin's natural moisturizing factors to keep skin soft, hydrated, and aids in wound healing.
- Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): A highly effective and safe ingredient for skin brightening and achieving an even skin tone by reducing melanin production.
- Ceracare™ Cholesterol, Ceracare™ Liposome-3, Ceracare™ NP50: These ceramide and cholesterol complexes are vital for repairing and strengthening the skin's natural barrier, enhancing moisturization, reducing sensitivity, and improving overall skin health.
Alternative for Ascorbyl Glucoside:
If you prefer to include Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C) for its collagen-stimulating, pigmentation-reducing, and antioxidant benefits, you would need to remove Safe-B3™ from the formulation to maintain stability. In such a case, Ascorbyl Glucoside would be added in the cool-down phase (below 50°C) and the pH of the final product would need to be carefully adjusted to 6.5-6.8 for optimal stability, potentially using L-Arginine or a Citrate Buffer as described in its product information.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)