Lotion Formulation with Sunscreen: Pilling Issue and Texture Goal

Asked by: deecream_kordee On: January 23, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following lotion formulation and encountered a pilling issue when applying it. I want a thick lotion texture that doesn't spill when the container is inverted, absorbs easily, is not sticky, and has a BB sunscreen effect without leaving a white cast. I tried the formula below, and it pills when applied. What needs to be adjusted to achieve the desired texture and prevent pilling?

Oil Phase:

  • Oil 2%
  • E-Wax 4%
  • Stearic Acid 4%
  • IPM 3%

Water Phase:

  • Distilled Water 70%

Sunscreen Phase:

  • Silicone 5%
  • Titanium Dioxide 3%

Final Phase:

  • Preservative
  • Fragrance

After trying this formula, it pills when applied. I want it to absorb into the skin immediately. What adjustments are needed?

Answer

Subject: Feedback on your Lotion Formulation

Hello! Thank you for sharing your lotion formulation and describing the issues you encountered, especially the pilling ("เป็นขุยๆ") and the desire for a non-greasy, fast-absorbing, thick lotion with a non-white-cast BB sunscreen effect.

Based on your formula and description, the pilling issue is most likely caused by the Titanium Dioxide (ไทเทนียม) and potentially its interaction with the Silicone (สิริโคน) and the emulsifier system (อีแว๊ก, สเตอริค).

Here's a breakdown and some suggestions:

  1. Pilling and White Cast (Titanium Dioxide):

    • Standard Titanium Dioxide is a white powder that can easily cause pilling and a white cast, especially at 3%.
    • To achieve a non-pilling, non-white-cast sunscreen effect, you should use a cosmetic-grade, micronized, coated, or pre-dispersed form of Titanium Dioxide. These versions are designed to disperse better, reduce white cast, and be less prone to pilling.
    • Ensure the Titanium Dioxide is very well dispersed, ideally in the oil or silicone phase, before combining with the water phase.

  2. Texture (Thick, Non-greasy, Absorbent):

    • Your emulsifier system (E-wax 4%, Stearic Acid 4%) is likely contributing to the thickness.
    • IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) is a good choice for reducing greasiness and improving absorption.
    • The type of Silicone also significantly impacts the feel. Some silicones improve slip and reduce tackiness.

  3. BB Effect:

    • A true "BB" effect usually involves adding skin-toned pigments (like iron oxides) to provide coverage and tint, in addition to the sunscreen filter. Simply using Titanium Dioxide won't give a BB tint, only a white effect (unless it's a tinted dispersion).

Suggestions for Improvement:

  • Replace your standard Titanium Dioxide with a cosmetic-grade, pre-dispersed, or coated version specifically designed for sunscreens to minimize pilling and white cast.
  • Ensure thorough dispersion of the Titanium Dioxide in your oil or silicone phase before emulsification.
  • Review the type of Silicone you are using. Some silicones work better with powdered ingredients than others.
  • You might need to slightly adjust the emulsifier/thickener ratio depending on the new ingredients used, but 8% total is generally good for a thick lotion.
  • If you want a tinted BB effect, you will need to add cosmetic-grade pigments (like iron oxides) and ensure they are also well dispersed.

Achieving a stable, non-pilling, non-greasy, fast-absorbing, tinted sunscreen lotion requires careful selection of ingredients and precise formulation techniques.

Would you like me to search for specific ingredients like "Emulsifying Wax", "Stearic Acid", "IPM", "Silicone", or "Titanium Dioxide" in the shop to see what options are available?

Tags

Lotion Pilling Sun Protection Texture White Cast Reduction