Makeup Remover Formulation for Oily Skin with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid
Question
I am developing a makeup and sunscreen remover formula for my girlfriend who has oily skin and clogged pores. I want the formula to be a clear or slightly hazy liquid. Here is the formula I am considering:
- Water: 65.4%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
- Propylene Glycol: 5%
- Coco Wash™: 10%
- MakeUp-Wash: 10%
- Coco Betaine: 5%
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid: 6.6%
- LipidSoft™ C1215: 2.9%
I have a few questions about this formula:
- Will all these ingredients dissolve or disperse well in water and be compatible with each other, resulting in a clear or slightly hazy liquid?
- Are the concentrations of the ingredients appropriate, especially for use around the eye area?
- What is the recommended mixing method for this formula?
I am concerned about potential irritation, particularly around the eyes, given the inclusion of Salicylic Acid.
Answer
Formula Review and Recommendations for Makeup Remover
Thank you for sharing your formula and questions. Based on your goal to create a makeup and sunscreen remover that also helps with clogged pores for oily skin, here is a review of your formula and answers to your questions:
1. Solubility and Compatibility
Yes, all the ingredients in your formula are generally compatible and should dissolve or disperse well in water. LipidSoft™ C1215 is oil-soluble, but the surfactants (Coco Wash™, MakeUp-Wash, Coco Betaine) in your formula will help it emulsify and mix with the water phase, allowing the formula to be a clear or slightly hazy liquid.
2. Ingredient Concentrations
Your formula uses relatively high concentrations of cleansing agents and actives. As the staff previously mentioned, you don't necessarily need to remove ingredients, but you might consider adjusting the usage amount or the concentration in the formula based on skin tolerance.
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid: You included 6.6%, which is the maximum recommended for over-the-counter products (equivalent to 2% active Salicylic Acid). However, since you intend to use this around the eye area, the staff correctly advised reducing the concentration of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid to no more than 3.3% (equivalent to 1% active Salicylic Acid) to minimize the risk of irritation to the sensitive eye area. Salicylic Acid can cause irritation, especially around the eyes, even in its encapsulated form, although encapsulation makes it gentler than standard Salicylic Acid.
- Surfactants (Coco Wash™, MakeUp-Wash, Coco Betaine): The total concentration of these surfactants is 25%. While these are gentle surfactants, this combined level is quite high for a leave-on product. For a wash-off product like a makeup remover, it can be effective for dissolving makeup and sunscreen. However, if your girlfriend experiences dryness or irritation, you might consider slightly reducing the concentrations of Coco Wash™ and MakeUp-Wash, perhaps closer to the 3-5% range as suggested in their product descriptions for makeup cleansing.
3. Mixing Method
The mixing method is straightforward:
- Start with the water phase. Add Disodium EDTA to the water and stir until dissolved.
- Add the water-soluble ingredients: Propylene Glycol, Coco Wash™, MakeUp-Wash, and Coco Betaine. Stir gently until everything is mixed. Avoid vigorous stirring to prevent excessive foaming.
- Add the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid. Stir gently until dispersed. Avoid high-speed mixing (above 1000 rpm) as this can damage the capsules.
- Add the LipidSoft™ C1215. Since it's oil-soluble, the surfactants will help it incorporate into the water phase. Stir gently until the mixture is uniform.
- Gentle warming can help some ingredients mix more easily, as suggested by the staff.
This formula combines effective cleansing agents with BHA for exfoliation and pore clearing, suitable for oily, acne-prone skin. Remember to test the final product on a small area first, especially around the eyes, and adjust the concentration of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid if any irritation occurs, following the staff's guidance.
Related Products Mentioned
Propylene Glycol (USP)
Disodium EDTA
Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)