Managing pH and Hair Texture with HeatPlex™
Question
I have a few questions regarding HeatPlex™:
- Is this substance alkaline?
- If so, will it cause the hair to become stiff or rough?
- How can I manage the formulation to keep the pH at the ideal level for hair?
- Are there any recommended pH adjusters?
- What are the recommended usage ratios for this ingredient?
Answer
HeatPlex™ (Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol) is a specialized hair care active designed to protect and coat the hair when activated by heat. Regarding your questions about its pH and effects on hair:
1. Is it alkaline?
While the raw material itself may have a specific pH, the most important factor is the pH of your final formulation. If a hair care product is too alkaline (pH higher than 7), it can cause the hair cuticle to swell and lift, leading to a rough, stiff, or tangled feel.
2. Ideal pH for Hair
For hair conditioners, treatments, or leave-on products, the ideal pH level is typically between 4.5 and 5.5. This range helps the hair cuticle lay flat, making the hair feel smooth, shiny, and manageable.
3. How to Manage and Adjust pH
To ensure your formula is at the correct level for the hair, you should use pH adjusters:
- To Lower pH (If the formula is too alkaline): Use Citric Acid.
- How to use: Dissolve a small amount of Citric Acid in water. Gradually add this solution to your formula (e.g., 0.1g at a time), stir well, and measure the pH until you reach the desired 4.5–5.5 range.
- To Raise pH (If the formula is too acidic): Use Triethanolamine (TEA).
- How to use: Add it in very small amounts. The recommended usage rate is 0.1–2.5%. Do not exceed 2.5% in the total formula.
4. Recommended Usage for HeatPlex™
- General Hair Care: 5–30%
- Conditioners and Treatments: 20–25% (recommended for best results)
Summary of Management:
- Mix HeatPlex™ into the water phase of your formula.
- Once all ingredients are mixed, use a pH meter or pH strips to test the value.
- If the pH is above 6.0, gradually add Citric Acid to bring it down to the 4.5–5.5 range to prevent hair from feeling rough or stiff.
Related Products Mentioned
Triethanolamine 99%