Matte Lipstick Formulation Advice

It sounds like you're working on a liquid matte lipstick formula. It can be tricky to get the balance right to achieve a truly matte finish. Based on your formula and common practices for matte lip products, here are some points to consider:

Why Your Formula Might Not Be Matte

Your formula contains several ingredients that can contribute to a less matte or even slightly glossy finish:

• Natural White Beeswax and Fractionated Coconut Oil: These are emollients and waxes that provide a smooth feel and structure, but can also add some shine.
• Oil Film (Long-Wear): While excellent for long wear and water resistance, its description indicates it provides a glossy film, which directly opposes a matte look.
• Silk Mica Powder: Mica can add slip and a subtle sheen, which might reduce the overall matte appearance.

How to Achieve a More Matte Finish

To make your lipstick more matte, you can adjust the formula based on the properties of the ingredients and the staff's suggested formula:

1. Increase Mattifying Powders: The most effective way to boost the matte finish is to increase the amount of MatteSilica. The staff's suggested formula uses a higher percentage (4% compared to your 2%) and recommends increasing it further for more matte effect. You could also consider increasing Silk Sericite Powder (Super-Matte), although your current percentage is already quite high.
2. Reduce or Replace Emollients/Waxes: Consider reducing or removing Natural White Beeswax and Fractionated Coconut Oil. The staff formula uses Microcrystalline Wax and Isohexadecane instead. Microcrystalline Wax is known for its oil absorption and ability to prevent sweating, which can support a matte finish in liquid formulas. Isohexadecane is a light, non-greasy emollient.
3. Balance Film Formers: The Oil Film (Long-Wear) provides gloss. While the staff formula includes it for long wear, they balance it with higher levels of mattifying powders. If a strong matte finish is your priority, you might need to reduce the Oil Film (Long-Wear) or significantly increase your mattifying powders (MatteSilica, Silk Sericite Powder). Using Hectorite Gel (Isododecane Base) instead of the Mineral Oil Base version might also contribute to a less greasy feel due to the volatile nature of Isododecane.
4. Consider Removing Silk Mica Powder: If maximizing the matte look is the goal, removing Silk Mica Powder could help, as it can impart some sheen.

Choosing a Fragrance for Lipstick

It's common for fragrance oils not specifically designed for lip products to smell unpleasant or chemical when used in lip formulations, especially with ingredients like pigments and waxes. Chocolate fragrance can be particularly challenging.

To avoid bad smells, always use fragrance or flavor oils that are specifically approved and tested for lip product use. These are formulated to be stable and taste/smell pleasant on the lips.

Some popular and generally well-performing fragrance types for lip products include:

• Vanilla
• Mint
• Various fruits (e.g., Strawberry, Grapefruit)

Look for fragrance oils labeled for lip use. Examples of fragrance oils available include Strawberry (Fragrance Oil), Sweet Vanilla, Mint / Rose / Lemon, Grapefruit (Fragrance Oil), or Jasmine Fragrance Oil. Always check the product description to ensure suitability for lip applications.

By adjusting the balance of mattifying powders, emollients, waxes, and film formers, and selecting a lip-safe fragrance, you should be able to achieve the matte finish you desire.