Mixing Procedure and Equipment for Serum Formulation

Asked by: nnlgecsfm On: December 26, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the following formulation: Distilled Water 81%, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%, DMI 3%, Glyceryl glucoside 2%, Butylene Glycol 1.5%, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 1%, Xanthan Gum 1%, Phenoxyethanol 0.5 %. Can these ingredients be mixed together without using a blender? What is the correct order for mixing these ingredients? Thank you.

Answer

Formulation Mixing Guide

Based on the ingredients in your formulation, here is a recommended mixing procedure:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: Combine the Distilled Water and Butylene Glycol in a container. Stir to mix.
  2. Disperse Xanthan Gum: Xanthan Gum requires proper dispersion to avoid lumps and achieve a smooth gel texture. It is highly recommended to use a high-speed mixer or blender (like a stick blender) for this step. Slowly add the Xanthan Gum to the water/Butylene Glycol mixture while stirring vigorously or blending. Continue mixing until the Xanthan Gum is fully hydrated and a smooth gel is formed. If you do not use a blender, you will need to stir very vigorously for an extended period, and lumps may still form.
  3. Add Solvents and Humectant: Add the Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) and Glyceryl Glucoside to the gel mixture. Stir until well combined.
  4. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Ensure the mixture temperature is below 60°C before adding Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate. These ingredients are sensitive to high heat. Add them to the mixture and stir until dissolved.
  5. Add Preservative: Add the Phenoxyethanol to the mixture. Stir to ensure it is evenly distributed.
  6. Final Mixing: Continue stirring the entire mixture until it is uniform and all ingredients are fully incorporated.

Regarding mixing without a blender: While some ingredients will dissolve easily with stirring, incorporating Xanthan Gum at 1% concentration without a high-speed mixer or blender will be challenging. You will likely end up with a lumpy gel. For a smooth and homogenous product, using a blender for the Xanthan Gum dispersion step is strongly advised.