Mixing Steps for DIY Whitening & Moisturizing Lotion
Question
I have dry skin and need moisturization and brightening. I've put together the following formula. Could you please provide the mixing steps? Do I need to heat the water phase?
Water Phase
- Water: 60%
- Safe-B3: 7%
- Alpha Arbutin: 2%
- Panthenol: 4%
- Glycerin: 2%
Oil Phase
- Kojic Acid Dipalmitate: 3%
- Sweet Almond Oil: 4%
- Grape Seed Oil: 10%
- E-wax: 5%
- Cetyl Alcohol: 2%
Cool Down Phase
- Essential Oil: 0.5%
- Phenonip P4: 0.5%
Answer
Review of Your Whitening Lotion Formula
Hello!
Based on your goal for moisturized and brighter skin, your formula includes ingredients suitable for both purposes:
- Moisturization: Glycerin, Panthenol, Sweet Almond Oil, Grape Seed Oil.
- Whitening: Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Alpha Arbutin, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate.
The percentages you've listed add up to 100%, which is a good starting point.
Regarding your question about heating the water phase, yes, you generally need to heat both the water phase and the oil phase when making a lotion that contains emulsifying wax (like E-wax) and solid fats/waxes (like Cetyl Alcohol). Heating helps melt the oil phase ingredients and allows the emulsifier to properly bind the oil and water together to form a stable emulsion (lotion).
Here is a general procedure for mixing your lotion:
Mixing Instructions
- Weigh/Measure: Accurately weigh or measure all ingredients according to your formula percentages. Keep the Water Phase, Oil Phase, and Cool Down Phase ingredients separate.
- Heat Water Phase: Combine the Water Phase ingredients (Water, Safe-B3, Alpha Arbutin, Panthenol, Glycerin) in a heat-resistant container. Gently heat this phase to around 70-75°C.
- Heat Oil Phase: Combine the Oil Phase ingredients (Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, Sweet Almond Oil, Grape Seed Oil, E-wax, Cetyl Alcohol) in a separate heat-resistant container. Heat this phase to the same temperature (around 70-75°C) until all solid ingredients (E-wax, Cetyl Alcohol, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate) are completely melted and the phase is clear.
- Combine Phases: Once both phases have reached the target temperature and the oil phase is clear, slowly pour the hot Oil Phase into the hot Water Phase while stirring continuously.
- Emulsify: Continue stirring vigorously (using a whisk or a stick blender is recommended for better emulsification) for several minutes until the mixture thickens and turns opaque, indicating that an emulsion has formed.
- Cool Down: Switch to occasional stirring as the lotion cools down. Continue stirring until the temperature drops below 40°C.
- Add Cool Down Phase: Once the lotion is below 40°C, add the Cool Down Phase ingredients (Essential Oil, Phenonip P4).
- Final Mix: Stir well to ensure the cool-down ingredients are evenly distributed.
- Package: Pour the finished lotion into clean containers.
Remember to always use clean and sanitized equipment and containers when making skincare products at home.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Kojic Acid Dipalmitate
Cetyl Alcohol
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)