Mixing Steps for DIY Whitening & Moisturizing Lotion

Asked by: hq.xardnas On: February 01, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have dry skin and need moisturization and brightening. I've put together the following formula. Could you please provide the mixing steps? Do I need to heat the water phase?

Water Phase

  • Water: 60%
  • Safe-B3: 7%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
  • Panthenol: 4%
  • Glycerin: 2%

Oil Phase

  • Kojic Acid Dipalmitate: 3%
  • Sweet Almond Oil: 4%
  • Grape Seed Oil: 10%
  • E-wax: 5%
  • Cetyl Alcohol: 2%

Cool Down Phase

  • Essential Oil: 0.5%
  • Phenonip P4: 0.5%

Answer

Review of Your Whitening Lotion Formula

Hello!

Based on your goal for moisturized and brighter skin, your formula includes ingredients suitable for both purposes:

  • Moisturization: Glycerin, Panthenol, Sweet Almond Oil, Grape Seed Oil.
  • Whitening: Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Alpha Arbutin, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate.

The percentages you've listed add up to 100%, which is a good starting point.

Regarding your question about heating the water phase, yes, you generally need to heat both the water phase and the oil phase when making a lotion that contains emulsifying wax (like E-wax) and solid fats/waxes (like Cetyl Alcohol). Heating helps melt the oil phase ingredients and allows the emulsifier to properly bind the oil and water together to form a stable emulsion (lotion).

Here is a general procedure for mixing your lotion:

Mixing Instructions

  1. Weigh/Measure: Accurately weigh or measure all ingredients according to your formula percentages. Keep the Water Phase, Oil Phase, and Cool Down Phase ingredients separate.
  2. Heat Water Phase: Combine the Water Phase ingredients (Water, Safe-B3, Alpha Arbutin, Panthenol, Glycerin) in a heat-resistant container. Gently heat this phase to around 70-75°C.
  3. Heat Oil Phase: Combine the Oil Phase ingredients (Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, Sweet Almond Oil, Grape Seed Oil, E-wax, Cetyl Alcohol) in a separate heat-resistant container. Heat this phase to the same temperature (around 70-75°C) until all solid ingredients (E-wax, Cetyl Alcohol, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate) are completely melted and the phase is clear.
  4. Combine Phases: Once both phases have reached the target temperature and the oil phase is clear, slowly pour the hot Oil Phase into the hot Water Phase while stirring continuously.
  5. Emulsify: Continue stirring vigorously (using a whisk or a stick blender is recommended for better emulsification) for several minutes until the mixture thickens and turns opaque, indicating that an emulsion has formed.
  6. Cool Down: Switch to occasional stirring as the lotion cools down. Continue stirring until the temperature drops below 40°C.
  7. Add Cool Down Phase: Once the lotion is below 40°C, add the Cool Down Phase ingredients (Essential Oil, Phenonip P4).
  8. Final Mix: Stir well to ensure the cool-down ingredients are evenly distributed.
  9. Package: Pour the finished lotion into clean containers.

Remember to always use clean and sanitized equipment and containers when making skincare products at home.