Modifying Cream Formula: Whitening, Texture, and Penetration Enhancer Alternatives

Asked by: kissmeagainn On: March 06, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have an existing cream formula that I previously ordered for production. The formula is as follows:

  1. Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): 0.50 %
  2. Snail Secretion: 5.00 %
  3. Disodium EDTA: 0.20 %
  4. Light Lotion Maker: 3.00 %
  5. Xanthan Gum (Clear gel type, smooth non-stretchy texture): 1.00 %
  6. Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free): 1.00 %
  7. GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine): 4.00 %
  8. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5.00 %
  9. Sterile Distilled Water: 76.30 %
  10. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): 3.00 %
  11. Odor-Kill™ (Water-soluble): 1.00 % (This ingredient has not been added yet)

I have some additional questions:

  1. If I remove Sym-White™ from the formula, are there any other whitening ingredients that offer similar properties to Sym-White™ but are not too expensive? (Your team's opinion is welcome).
  2. I saw a comment from your team regarding the Stabilized Vitamin C Serum formula mentioning some whitening ingredients that focus on achieving a "pale white" skin tone. Could you please provide the names of these ingredients? (Please list several if possible).
  3. If I remove Sym-White™, can I use Luxury Cream Maker alone to create the cream texture?
  4. If I change Snail Secretion 5% to Shea Butter Light Oil 5%, will the moisturizing and skin smoothing properties decrease? Will it make the formula sticky?
  5. If I change the penetration enhancer from Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI), which has a strong odor, to Reservoir-Tech, would that be suitable? Or do you recommend any other alternatives?
  6. Between CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide) 1.5% and WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) 0.2%, which one would be more suitable to add to the formula (focusing on achieving a "pale white" skin tone)?

I apologize if any of these questions have been asked before. Thank you.

Answer

Based on your questions about modifying your cream formulation:

1. Replacing Sym-White™

If you remove Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) from your formula, there are several other effective whitening ingredients you could consider as alternatives. Sym-White™ is known for its high potency in inhibiting pigmentation. Alternatives with similar strong whitening properties include:

  • Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol): Another potent resorcinol derivative known for significant whitening effects.
  • Hexylresorcinol AF / HR-White™ (4-Hexylresorcinol): Also a resorcinol derivative with proven efficacy in reducing hyperpigmentation.
  • CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide): Research indicates it is more effective than Kojic Acid in reducing pigmentation.
  • WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane): Derived from turmeric, it's a high-purity ingredient that reduces pigmentation and offers antioxidant benefits.

The suitability and cost-effectiveness would depend on your specific needs and budget, but these options are recognized for their strong whitening capabilities.

2. Ingredients for "Pale White Skin"

Ingredients that are known for their strong ability to reduce skin pigmentation and can contribute to a "pale white" appearance include potent tyrosinase inhibitors and melanin reduction agents. Based on their described efficacy, the following ingredients could help achieve this effect:

  • Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol)
  • Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
  • Hexylresorcinol AF / HR-White™ (4-Hexylresorcinol)
  • CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide)
  • WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane)
  • Other strong whitening agents like MelaninTerminate™, SclareoWhite™, GlyciWhite™, MSH White™, Z-White™, and ChromaWhite™.

Combining some of these with ingredients like Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), which are already in your formula and work synergistically for whitening, can further enhance the effect.

3. Using Luxury Cream Maker Alone

Yes, if you remove Sym-White™, you can likely use Luxury Cream Maker alone to create the cream base. Luxury Cream Maker is designed to function as an emulsifier and cream base. Removing Sym-White™ (a whitening active) does not affect the ability of an emulsifier like Luxury Cream Maker to form a cream texture. Your original formula used Light Lotion Maker, which is also an emulsifier, in combination with other ingredients to create the desired texture. Luxury Cream Maker can typically be used as the primary ingredient for forming a cream.

4. Replacing Snail Secretion with Shea Butter Light Oil

Replacing Snail Secretion with Shea Butter Light Oil at 5% will impact the properties of your cream.

  • Moisture and Smoothness: Shea Butter Light Oil is a good moisturizer and provides a lightweight, non-greasy feel. However, Snail Secretion offers a broader range of benefits, including stimulating the skin's natural production of Hyaluronic Acid, which contributes significantly to deep moisture and skin smoothness. It also aids in skin regeneration and has anti-aging properties. Replacing it solely with Shea Butter Light Oil might result in a reduction of these specific regenerative and deep moisturizing benefits provided by Snail Secretion.
  • Stickiness: Shea Butter Light Oil is specifically processed to be lightweight and non-greasy. Replacing Snail Secretion with Shea Butter Light Oil at the same percentage is unlikely to make the formula more sticky. In fact, it might contribute to a less heavy feel compared to some other oils, as it's designed for easy absorption.

5. Replacing DMI with Reservoir-Tech

Replacing Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) with Reservoir-Tech would change how active ingredients are delivered into the skin.

  • DMI is a penetration enhancer that helps carry ingredients into the skin, which can be useful for ensuring actives reach their target layers. Its main drawback for you is the odor.
  • Reservoir-Tech is not a direct carrier but forms a film on the skin that helps retain active ingredients and releases them gradually. This can be beneficial for reducing irritation from potent actives and providing a longer-lasting effect.

If your primary goal is to avoid the odor of DMI while still enhancing penetration, you could consider using Odor-Kill™ (which you mentioned you haven't added yet) at 1% in your formula containing DMI, as it can help absorb the DMI odor. Alternatively, other penetration enhancers like Laurocapram (Water-Soluble) or Phospholipids could be explored, depending on the solubility of your active ingredients and desired skin feel.

Reservoir-Tech is suitable if you want a gradual release of actives and potential irritation reduction, but it functions differently from DMI's direct penetration enhancement.

6. Adding CosmoWhite™ or WhiteCumin™

Both CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide) and WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) are effective whitening agents that could contribute to a "pale white" skin tone by reducing pigmentation.

  • CosmoWhite™ is water-soluble, which makes it easier to incorporate into your existing water-based formula.
  • WhiteCumin™ is soluble in Glycol, Propanediol, and oil. You would need to dissolve it in a suitable solvent before adding it to your formula, which adds a step to the mixing process. WhiteCumin™ also provides antioxidant benefits.

Both are suitable options for enhancing whitening. If ease of formulation is a priority, CosmoWhite™ might be slightly more convenient due to its water solubility. If you also desire antioxidant benefits and are comfortable with pre-dissolving, WhiteCumin™ is a strong choice. Consider the recommended usage rates (CosmoWhite™ 0.1-1.5%, WhiteCumin™ 0.1-1.0%, recommended 0.2%) when deciding the concentration.