Modifying Sunscreen Cream Formula for Oil Control, SPF Boost, and Water Resistance

Asked by: moo_wilaija On: May 04, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I modify a sunscreen formula based on `SPF Protect Ultra™` and `Light Cream Maker` to improve oil control, increase SPF/PA and water resistance using `Mattesilica`, `Titanium Dioxide Nano`, `Zinc Oxide`, and `AminoSilk™`? What is the recommended mixing method, especially for incorporating the powder ingredients into the cream base?

Answer

Modified Sunscreen Formula

Here is a modified formula and steps, incorporating the ingredients you mentioned and the advice on mixing:

Proposed Modified Sunscreen Formula:

Ingredient Percentage
Distilled Water 67.5%
SPF Protect Ultra™ 20%
Light Cream Maker 1.5%
Phenoxyethanol 1%
Mattesilica 3%
Titanium Dioxide Nano 3%
Zinc Oxide 3%
AminoSilk™ 1%
Total 100%

Explanation of Added Ingredients:

  • Mattesilica (3%): Added to absorb excess oil on the skin, providing a mattifying effect and contributing to a smoother feel.
  • Titanium Dioxide Nano (3%) and Zinc Oxide (3%): These physical UV filters provide broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB). Adding them will boost the overall SPF and contribute to longer-lasting protection. They also help make the formula more water-resistant by forming a physical barrier on the skin. Using nano-sized particles helps minimize the white cast.
  • AminoSilk™ (1%): Added to improve the skin feel, making the cream feel softer and more elegant upon application.

Mixing Steps (Simplified Method):

Based on the advice you received, the easiest way for a beginner is to make the base cream first and then incorporate the powders.

  1. Prepare the Base Cream: Combine the Distilled Water (67.5%), SPF Protect Ultra™ (20%), Light Cream Maker (1.5%), and Phenoxyethanol (1%). Mix thoroughly according to the instructions for your Light Cream Maker until a smooth cream is formed. (Light Cream Maker typically works without heat, but always follow the specific instructions for your ingredients).
  2. Add the Powders: Once the base cream is formed, gradually add the Mattesilica (3%), Titanium Dioxide Nano (3%), Zinc Oxide (3%), and AminoSilk™ (1%) to the cream.
  3. Mix Thoroughly: This is the most critical step when adding powders. Use a mixer (like a stick blender or cosmetic mixer) to blend the powders into the cream. You will need to mix for a significant amount of time (at least 15-20 minutes) to ensure the powders are fully dispersed and there are no gritty particles or clumps. Scrape down the sides of your container periodically to ensure everything is incorporated.

Important Considerations:

  • Mixing Time: Dispersing powders requires patience and thorough mixing to achieve a smooth texture and good sun protection.
  • Adjustments: This is a suggested starting point. You may need to adjust the percentages based on your results and desired texture.
  • Stability: Adding powders can sometimes affect the stability of an emulsion. Monitor the cream over time for separation.
  • White Cast: Adding Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide may still result in some white cast, even with nano sizes. Test on a small area.
  • Waterproofing: While adding physical filters helps with water resistance, achieving true "waterproof" claims requires specific testing and often additional ingredients like film-forming polymers. This formula will be more water-resistant than the original, but may not be fully waterproof.

Enjoy formulating your own sunscreen!