Modifying Vitamin C E Ferulic Acid Formula: Replacing Laureth-23 and Removing Glycerin/Propylene Glycol

You've asked about modifying a Vitamin C E Ferulic acid formula by replacing Laureth-23 with Laureth-7 and removing Glycerin and Propylene Glycol to avoid heating.

Here's a breakdown of the potential effects of these changes:

• Replacing Laureth-23 with Laureth-7:

  • Laureth-23 is a solid emulsifier that requires heating to incorporate into the oil phase, with an HLB around 17-18. It's used to create stable cream textures.
  • Laureth-7 is a liquid emulsifier with a lower HLB of 12.3. While using Laureth-7 would eliminate the need for heating, its different HLB means it functions differently as an emulsifier. This substitution could significantly impact the stability and texture of your final cream, potentially leading to separation or a different consistency than the original formula.

• Removing Glycerin and Propylene Glycol:

  • Both Glycerin and Propylene Glycol serve as humectants (attracting and retaining moisture) and solvents in cosmetic formulas.
  • They are crucial for helping to dissolve active ingredients (like Vitamin C) and maintaining the stability of the formula, especially over time and with temperature changes. They also contribute to the feel and spreadability of the product.
  • Removing both of these ingredients will likely reduce the formula's ability to hydrate the skin and could compromise the stability of the active ingredients, potentially leading to reduced efficacy or changes in appearance (like precipitation).

In summary, while these modifications might simplify the formulation process by avoiding heating, they involve substituting an emulsifier with different properties and removing key humectant/solvent ingredients. These are significant changes that could alter the stability, texture, and effectiveness of the original Vitamin C E Ferulic acid formula. As the original formula creator noted, any modifications may result in different outcomes compared to the original.