MSH White Dissolution and Texture Issues in Serum, Alternative Ingredients
คำถาม
When formulating a serum with MSH White (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine), it dissolves in the oil phase with heat but precipitates upon cooling, resulting in a grainy texture in the final emulsion. What techniques can prevent this precipitation and achieve a smooth texture? Are there alternative whitening ingredients that are easier to formulate for a smooth serum?
คำตอบ
Resolving MSH White Dissolution Issues and Alternative Whitening Ingredients
You're experiencing a common issue with MSH White (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) precipitation in your serum. This ingredient is oil-soluble and requires heat to fully dissolve in the oil phase (around 80°C). The problem arises when the mixture cools, and the MSH White recrystallizes if it's not properly stabilized within the final formulation.
Here are some techniques to help ensure MSH White remains dissolved and your serum texture is smooth:
- Ensure Sufficient Oil Phase: MSH White needs to stay dissolved in the oil phase even at room temperature. Make sure your formulation contains an adequate amount of suitable oil or lipid phase that can hold the MSH White in solution after cooling.
- Maintain Temperature During Emulsification: When combining the oil phase (containing dissolved MSH White) with the water phase, ensure both phases are at a similar elevated temperature (e.g., around 75-80°C) before emulsifying. This helps prevent premature crystallization.
- Proper Mixing/Homogenization: After emulsification, thorough mixing or homogenization is crucial to create a stable emulsion. This process helps disperse any potential micro-crystals that might form and prevents them from clumping together into noticeable particles. Continue mixing until the emulsion has cooled significantly.
- Consider Co-solvents: While MSH White is primarily oil-soluble, sometimes incorporating a compatible co-solvent in the oil phase (if your formula allows) can help improve solubility and stability upon cooling. However, ensure compatibility with your overall formulation.
If working with MSH White continues to be challenging, there are several alternative whitening ingredients that might be easier to incorporate depending on your desired formulation type (water-based, oil-based, emulsion). Some alternatives include:
- GlyciWhite™: Often water-soluble or easily dispersible.
- Hexylresorcinol AF: Known for good efficacy and often easier to formulate than some other actives.
- Phenylethyl Resorcinol (SymWhite 377): Another effective resorcinol derivative, often used in oil or oil-like phases but can be easier to handle than MSH White.
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Typically water-soluble, making it suitable for water-based serums or the water phase of emulsions.
- Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol): A potent ingredient that may require specific formulation considerations but can be a strong alternative.
Each alternative has its own recommended usage rate, solubility, and formulation guidelines, so it's important to check the specific product details for the best results.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
GlyciWhite™