Natural Cleansing Oil Formulation: Emulsifiers and Stability
คำถาม
I used a cleansing oil from a brand and want to make one for sale. Its ingredients are: [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/natural-oil-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/7972-rice-bran-oil-high-omega-refined.html:1fnvt8vu]Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/water-in-oil-low-medium-hlb/7435-polyglyceryl-2-oleate.html:1fnvt8vu]Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate[/url:1fnvt8vu], Isoamyl Laurate, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/85-extra-virgin-olive-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81-%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:1fnvt8vu]Olea Europaea[/url:1fnvt8vu] (Olive) Fruit Oil, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/6236-sunflower-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%87%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99.html:1fnvt8vu]Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/90-apricot-kernel-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99-%E0%B9%80%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%97-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%97.html:1fnvt8vu]Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/128-squalane-olive-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81.html:1fnvt8vu]Squalane[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/120-grape-seed-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%87%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99.html:1fnvt8vu]Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/87-jojoba-oil-golden-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%87%E0%B8%99.html:1fnvt8vu]Simmondsia Chinensis[/url:1fnvt8vu] (Jojoba) Seed Oil, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/65-vitamin-e-tocopheryl-acetate-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B5.html:1fnvt8vu]Tocopheryl Acetate[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/essential-oil-distillation/3227-litsea-cubeba-may-chang-oil.html:1fnvt8vu]Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/essential-oil-distillation/3226-lime-citrus-aurantifolia-oil.html:1fnvt8vu]Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/essential-oil-distillation/3224-lemon-oil-peel.html:1fnvt8vu]Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/natural-essential-oils/3239-bitter-orange-oil-peel.html:1fnvt8vu]Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/citrus-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%A7-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/2486-d-limonene.html:1fnvt8vu]Limonene[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/rose-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%9A/2767-geraniol.html:1fnvt8vu]Geraniol[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/citrus-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%A7-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/2487-citral.html:1fnvt8vu]Citral[/url:1fnvt8vu], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/linalool-%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/2685-linalool.html:1fnvt8vu]Linalool[/url:1fnvt8vu]. If I want to make a cleansing oil for makeup removal with natural ingredients, my questions are: 1. If the remaining ingredients are oils with no water, what percentage of [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/water-in-oil-low-medium-hlb/7435-polyglyceryl-2-oleate.html:1fnvt8vu]Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate[/url:1fnvt8vu] should I use? It's listed second in their ingredient list, so I think it might be used at a higher percentage than recommended on this website. 2. Based on the ingredients in the formula, do I need to use Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate* together with [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/water-in-oil-low-medium-hlb/7435-polyglyceryl-2-oleate.html:1fnvt8vu]Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate[/url:1fnvt8vu]? If so, what percentage should I use? Note: I'm not very clear on what the website writes about Oil in water and [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/726-water-in-oil-serum.html:1fnvt8vu]Water in Oil[/url:1fnvt8vu]. I searched on Google but am still confused, so I'm not sure if I need to use both [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/water-in-oil-low-medium-hlb/7435-polyglyceryl-2-oleate.html:1fnvt8vu]Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate[/url:1fnvt8vu] + Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate* because it needs to interact with water and the oil should rinse off easily, turning milky and removing makeup. 3. Should I add [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/65-vitamin-e-tocopheryl-acetate-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B5.html:1fnvt8vu]Vit E[/url:1fnvt8vu] or ROE to reduce ingredient degradation?
คำตอบ
Natural Cleansing Oil Formulation Guidance
You're interested in creating a natural cleansing oil that effectively removes makeup and rinses off easily, turning milky upon contact with water. This type of product relies on emulsifiers to bridge the oil phase and the water it interacts with during rinsing.
1. Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate Percentage
Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate is listed second in the original product's ingredient list, which typically indicates a higher concentration than ingredients listed later. While Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate is technically a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier with a low HLB (around 5.5-6.5), in cleansing oil formulations, emulsifiers are used to create a temporary oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion when the oil is mixed with water during rinsing.
The typical usage rate for Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate is 2-4%. However, to achieve a strong self-emulsifying effect that turns the oil milky and rinses cleanly, you might need to use a higher percentage or combine it with other emulsifiers. The exact percentage required will depend on the specific blend of oils you use and the desired performance. Formulation requires testing different concentrations to find what works best.
2. Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
You've asked if you need to use Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate in addition to Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate. Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier with a higher HLB (around 12.5). O/W emulsifiers are effective at dispersing oil in water, which is exactly what you want to happen when your cleansing oil mixes with water to rinse off makeup.
While the original formula you referenced only lists Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, it's common practice in self-emulsifying cleansing oils to use a blend of emulsifiers, often combining a lower HLB emulsifier with a higher HLB one to achieve optimal performance and a stable emulsion upon dilution. Using Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, either alone or in combination with Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, can help ensure your cleansing oil turns milky and rinses cleanly.
The typical usage rate for Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate is 1-6%. If you choose to use a blend, the total percentage and ratio of the emulsifiers will need to be determined through experimentation to get the desired milky effect and rinse-off properties.
Understanding the difference between W/O and O/W emulsions can be tricky. In simple terms:
- Water-in-Oil (W/O): Small water droplets dispersed in a continuous oil phase (like a rich cream). Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate typically promotes this.
- Oil-in-Water (O/W): Small oil droplets dispersed in a continuous water phase (like a light lotion or milk). Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate typically promotes this.
For a cleansing oil that rinses with water, you are essentially creating an O/W emulsion upon contact with water. Emulsifiers like Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate are very effective at helping oil disperse into water for easy rinsing.
3. Antioxidants (Vitamin E or ROE)
Yes, it is highly recommended to include an antioxidant like Vitamin E or Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) in your natural cleansing oil formulation. Natural oils are susceptible to oxidation, which can cause them to become rancid, develop unpleasant odors, and degrade over time.
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate or dl-alpha tocopherol): This is a common antioxidant for oil-based products. It helps protect the oils from oxidation. The recommended usage rate for Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) as an antioxidant for oils is 0.01%, or 0.1-0.5% if also intended for skin benefits (though higher amounts can feel sticky). Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) is also effective.
- Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE): ROE is a highly effective natural antioxidant for oils, especially when used in conjunction with Vitamin E. The recommended usage rate is 0.02% - 0.1%. Be aware that ROE has a dark color and a distinct rosemary scent, which might affect the final product's appearance and fragrance.
Including one or both of these antioxidants will significantly help extend the shelf life and maintain the quality of your natural oil blend.
In summary, while the original formula provides a starting point, achieving the perfect cleansing oil requires careful selection and balancing of emulsifiers and the inclusion of effective antioxidants to ensure stability and performance. Experimentation with different percentages of Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate and potentially adding Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate is key to getting the desired milky rinse-off effect.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE)
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
