Natural Lip Balm Stick Formulation with HyaCoat™ and Azela-Lip™

Asked by: sirinan.ru On: March 06, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like a formulation for a natural lip balm stick that is nourishing but not overly greasy. I want to include the following ingredients: HyaCoat™ (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid), shea butter, Beeswax, and Vitamin E. Could you please provide:

  • A sample formula with recommended percentages for these ingredients?
  • Information on the expected shelf life of the finished product?
  • Suggestions for an ingredient to add to address dark lips?

Answer

Natural Nourishing Lip Balm Stick Formulation

This is a proposed formulation for your natural lip balm stick, designed to be nourishing but not overly greasy, incorporating the ingredients you listed and addressing your questions. Since you included HyaCoat™ (a water-soluble ingredient) and referenced Water Balm™, this formula is designed as a water-in-oil balm, which requires a binder like Water Balm™ and a preservative.

Proposed Formula:

  • Oil Phase (Heat to ~75-80°C):
    • Shea Butter (Refined): 67.3%
    • Natural White Beeswax: 20%
    • Water Balm™: 5%
    • Azela-Lip™: 1%
  • Water Phase (Mix separately):
    • Water (Distilled/Deionized): 5%
    • HyaCoat™: 0.2%
  • Cool Down Phase (Add below 40°C):
    • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 0.5%
    • Mild Preserved™ COS: 1%

Instructions:

  1. Combine the ingredients in the Oil Phase (Shea Butter, Beeswax, Water Balm™, Azela-Lip™) and heat gently to around 75-80°C until all waxes and butters are fully melted and Azela-Lip™ is dispersed. Stir well.
  2. In a separate container, mix the Water Phase ingredients (Water, HyaCoat™) until HyaCoat™ is completely dissolved.
  3. Slowly add the Water Phase to the heated Oil Phase while stirring or blending continuously. Maintain stirring/blending until the mixture is uniform.
  4. Remove from heat and continue stirring or blending at a lower speed as the mixture cools.
  5. When the mixture has cooled below 40°C, add the ingredients from the Cool Down Phase (Vitamin E, Mild Preserved™ COS) and stir until fully incorporated.
  6. Pour the mixture into lip balm tubes before it solidifies. Allow to cool completely at room temperature.

Answering Your Questions:

  1. Percentages: The proposed formula above provides suggested percentages for each ingredient. These percentages are a starting point and can be adjusted slightly based on your desired final texture. Increasing beeswax will make the stick harder, while increasing shea butter will make it softer and potentially more emollient.
  2. Shelf Life: Since this formula contains a water phase, a broad-spectrum preservative like Mild Preserved™ COS is essential to prevent microbial growth. With proper preservation, hygienic preparation, suitable packaging, and storage away from heat and direct sunlight, the balm's shelf life can be expected to be at least 1-2 years, often aligning with the shortest expiry date of the ingredients used (many ingredients listed have a shelf life of 2 years or more). For commercial products, a challenge test is required to confirm the preservative's effectiveness in the specific formula.
  3. Ingredient for Dark Lips: To help with dark lips, you can add Azela-Lip™ (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate). This ingredient is suitable for lip products and is known for its skin brightening properties. A usage rate of 1% is suggested in the formula above, which is within the recommended range for this ingredient.