Night Cream Formulation for Dry, Sensitive Skin with Wrinkles and Melasma

Thank you for your question regarding a night cream formulation for dry, sensitive skin with concerns about wrinkles and melasma. Based on the ingredients you've selected and the previous advice from our team, here is an analysis and guidance on creating your cream.

Ingredient Compatibility

As confirmed by our team, the ingredients you listed are generally compatible for use in a single formulation. You should not encounter significant issues with combining them.

Suitability for Your Skin Type

Your skin is described as dry, sensitive, with wrinkles and melasma. The selection of ingredients targets wrinkles, hydration, and brightening. However, as noted by our team, a lightweight cream without sufficient oil or butter content (ideally 10-20%) might not provide enough moisture and emolliency for dry skin, even for a night cream. Consider incorporating a suitable oil or butter to better nourish your skin.

Additionally, some active ingredients like Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) and Activated Resorcinol™ are potent exfoliants and brightening agents that could potentially cause irritation on sensitive skin, especially when used together in a complex formula. It is highly recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the final product to your face.

Recommended Usage Rates

While I cannot provide a complete formula with exact percentages for each ingredient (as this requires specific formulation expertise and testing), I can provide the recommended usage ranges for each ingredient based on their product descriptions. You will need to determine the final percentage for each within these ranges, keeping the total formula at 100% and considering the need for a water base and potentially an oil phase.

• Satin Cream Maker™: 0.1-3.0% (Recommended 1-1.5% for desired viscosity)
• Repair Activator™ BG: 5-100% (Typical usage in complex formulas is often lower than the maximum, e.g., 10% as seen in an example formula)
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 1-10% (Recommended 5%, can use up to 10%)
• Wild Yam Extract: 1-3%
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 0.5-10% for skin (Recommended 1-3%, over 5% may cause stickiness)
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Up to 3% (Maximum allowed for cosmetics)
• Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): 0.2-2% (Recommended 2%)
• Activated Resorcinol™: 0.1-2.0% (Not more than 1.0% for leave-on products)
• Willow Bark Extract: 1-10% (Recommended 3% for general care, 5-10% for exfoliation/dark spots)
• MOIST72™: 2-5% (Recommended 5% for very dry skin, 2-3% for normal skin)
• Reservoir-Tech: 2.5-5.0% (Recommended 3%)

• Mild Preserved Eco™: 0.5-2.0% (Recommended 1-1.5% for general preservation, staff recommended 1%)

• (Note: I could not identify a specific product corresponding to "Full&Lift" from the available product information.)*

Method of Preparation

Using Satin Cream Maker™ is relatively straightforward as it is a heat-free emulsifier. A general method would involve:

1. Water Phase: Combine water and all water-soluble ingredients (e.g., Repair Activator™ BG, Safe-B3™, Panthenol, Tranexamic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Willow Bark Extract, MOIST72™, Reservoir-Tech). Stir until fully dissolved.
2. Oil Phase (Optional but Recommended for Dry Skin): If adding oil or butter, combine them separately. You may need to gently heat this phase (around 50°C) if using solid butters like Shea Butter to melt them.
3. Emulsification: Add Satin Cream Maker™ to the water phase and stir briefly. Then, add the oil phase (if used) to the water phase containing the Satin Cream Maker™. Mix continuously. The cream texture should form within 1-10 minutes. Avoid mixing at speeds higher than 2500 rpm, as this can damage the polymer.
4. Cool Down Phase: Once the cream has formed and cooled down (below 40°C for MOIST72™ and below 30°C for Alpha Arbutin), add any heat-sensitive ingredients and the preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™). Mix until fully incorporated.
5. Final Check: Adjust the pH if necessary to be within the optimal range for the active ingredients (generally between 4-8, but check individual ingredient pH requirements like Alpha Arbutin 3.5-6.5, Activated Resorcinol™ 4.5-5.5, Safe-B3™ 4.0-7.0, Panthenol 3.5-7.0, Willow Bark Extract 4.0-6.5, Wild Yam Extract 4.0-6.5, MOIST72™ 4-8, Tranexamic Acid 3-8). Ensure the preservative is effective within the final pH range.

Remember to store the finished product properly, away from sunlight and heat, and follow the storage instructions for individual ingredients, especially those requiring refrigeration like Repair Activator™ BG, Alpha Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, Activated Resorcinol™, and Wild Yam Extract.

Always perform a small batch test before making a large quantity.